Как пишется герлен на английском

Guerlain S.A.

Type	Subsidiary
Industry	Cosmetics
Founded	1828 (192 years ago)
Founder	Monsieur Pierre-François-Pascal Guerlain
Headquarters	Paris, France
Products	Perfumes Cosmetics Skin care Hair care
Revenue	€402.2 million (2012)
Parent	LVMH
Website	www.guerlain.com

Guerlain (French pronunciation: ​[ɡɛʁlɛ̃]) is a French perfume, cosmetics and skincare house, which is among the oldest in the world. Many traditional Guerlain fragrances are characterized by a common olfactory accord known as the «Guerlinade» (fr).^{[citation needed]} The house was founded in Paris in 1828 by the perfumer Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain. It was run by the Guerlain family until 1994, when it was bought by the French multinational company LVMH. Its flagship store is 68, Avenue des Champs-Elysées in Paris.^[1]

History[edit]

The House of Guerlain was owned and managed by members of the Guerlain family from its inception in 1828 to 1994. It was acquired in 1994 by the LVMH group, a French multinational investment corporation specializing in luxury brands.^{[citation needed]}

Beginning[edit]

The House of Guerlain was founded in 1828, when Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain opened his perfume store at 42, rue de Rivoli in Paris. As both the founder and first perfumer of the house, Pierre-François composed and manufactured custom fragrances with the help of his two sons, Aimé and Gabriel. Through continued success and the patronage of members in high society, Guerlain opened its flagship store at 15, rue de la Paix in 1840, and put its mark on the Parisian fashion scene.

The success of the house under Pierre-François peaked in 1853 with the creation of Eau de Cologne Impériale for French Emperor Napoleon III and his Spanish-French wife Empress Eugénie. This perfume earned Pierre-François the prestigious title of being His Majesty’s Official Perfumer. Guerlain went on to create perfumes for Queen Victoria of the United Kingdom and Queen Isabella II of Spain, among other royalty.^{[citation needed]}

Second generation[edit]

With the death of Pierre-François in 1864, the house was left to his sons Aimé Guerlain and Gabriel Guerlain. The roles of perfumer and manager were divided between the two brothers, with Gabriel managing and further expanding the house, and Aimé becoming the master perfumer. The House of Guerlain thus began a long tradition whereby the position of master perfumer was handed down through the Guerlain family.

As Guerlain’s second generation in-house perfumer, Aimé was the creator of many classic compositions, including Fleur d’Italie (1884), Rococo (1887) and Eau de Cologne du Coq (1894). However, many would argue that his greatest composition was 1889’s Jicky, the first fragrance described as a «parfum» rather than an eau de cologne, and among the first to use synthetic ingredients alongside natural extracts.

Third generation[edit]

The business was handed down to the sons of Gabriel Guerlain: Jacques Guerlain and Pierre Guerlain. Jacques, Aimé’s nephew, became Guerlain’s third master perfumer; he was the author of many of Guerlain’s most famous classics, which are still held in high esteem in the modern perfume industry. Many of his perfumes are still sold and marketed today. Among Jacques Guerlain’s most important creations are Mouchoir de Monsieur (1904), Après L’Ondée (1906), L’Heure Bleue (1912), Mitsouko (1919), Guerlain’s flagship fragrance Shalimar (1925), and Vol de Nuit (1933). Jacques composed his final perfume, Ode (1955), with the assistance of his grandson, the then-18-year-old Jean-Paul Guerlain.

Fourth generation[edit]

Jean-Paul Guerlain was the last family master perfumer. He created Guerlain’s classic men’s fragrances Vétiver (1959) and Habit Rouge (1965). He also created Chant d’Arômes (1962) and Chamade (1969). From 1975 to 1989, he collaborated with perfumer Anne-Marie Saget, composing Nahema (1979), Jardins de Bagatelle (1983), Derby (1985) and Samsara (1989).^[2] His later work includes Héritage (1992), Coriolan (1998) and Vétiver pour Elle (2004). Jean-Paul Guerlain retired in 2002, but continued to serve as advisor to his successor until 2010, when he was terminated after making a racist remark on French television regarding the inspiration for his scent Samsara.^[3] With no heir from within the Guerlain family to take over, the role of master perfumer is no longer tied to family succession.

Purchase by the LVMH Group[edit]

In a decision widely seen as a break with tradition, the Guerlain family sold the company to the luxury goods conglomerate Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton (LVMH) in 1994. Though Jean-Paul Guerlain remained as an in-house perfumer until 2002, other perfumers were brought in after 1994 to compose perfumes for Guerlain, and Jean-Paul had to submit his compositions against those of others. Fans of the house viewed the LVMH purchase as a step towards the cheapening and commercialization of the legendary firm’s legacy. Most were unhappy with the first post-LVMH release, the 1996 sweet mimosa floral Champs-Elysées, composed by Olivier Cresp, whose entry was selected over that of Jean-Paul Guerlain.

Among the outside perfumers to compose perfumes for the firm after 1994 was Mathilde Laurent, who worked for Guerlain at the end of the 1990s and in the early 2000s. She composed Aqua Allegorica Pamplelune (1999) and Shalimar Light (2003, reattributed to Jean-Paul Guerlain and relaunched in 2004 following reformulation). Maurice Roucel, a perfumer of Symrise, composed L’Instant de Guerlain (2004) and Insolence (2006). As the niece of Jean-Jacques Guerlain, some thought Patricia de Nicolaï would have been a candidate for the position of Guerlain’s in-house perfumer,^[4] though the presence of a glass ceiling in the company prevented her selection for position.^[5]

In May 2008, Thierry Wasser was named the in-house perfumer for Guerlain. Wasser, a Swiss perfumer who used to work for Firmenich, created Iris Ganache (2007) and Quand Vient la Pluie (2007) for Guerlain before his appointment the following year. Jean-Paul Guerlain stayed on in an advisory consultant role, both for fragrance design and ingredients. Wasser was to work closely with Sylvaine Delacourte, Guerlain’s Artistic Director.^[6] In 2010, the LVMH Group cut ties with Jean-Paul Guerlain as their consultant due to his racist comments on French television.^[7][8][9]

Russian model Natalia Vodianova has been the face of Guerlain campaigns since 2008. Vodianova began advertising Shalimar to celebrate the perfume house’s 180th birthday.^[10] For the Fall 2013 makeup collection, Olivier Echaudemaison, Guerlian’s Creative Director of Makeup since 2000^[11] commented «Every season we fantasize with Natalia’s image and invent for her a new role. For us, it is not just a model, which advertises cosmetics, but above all, a great actress».^[12]
In October 2011, the company named Malaysian actress Michelle Yeoh as a new spokesmodel. Yeoh is an ambassador for the Orchidée Impériale line of skincare.^[13]

Products[edit]

Guerlain’s creations have long influenced the trends of perfumery with fragrances such as Jicky, Shalimar, Vétiver,and La Petite Robe Noire. Guerlain is among the few older houses (such as Caron) that exist solely to produce and market perfumes. Many brands in the perfume industry, such as Chanel and Jean Patou are in fact divisions of fashion houses or multinational conglomerates that license the brand name. Alongside its fragrances, today Guerlain has expanded to offer a large range of makeup and skincare. Guerlain products are available across the world at serviced counters within department stores, and at beauty stores such as fellow LVMH brand Sephora. Guerlain also maintains thirteen international beauty and spa ’boutiques’, five within France (two being in Paris).^[14]

Perfumes[edit]

Since its foundation in 1828, Guerlain has created over 600 fragrances.^[15] Among the company’s most notable (in terms of longevity, sales or cultural impact) are:

Name	Year	Detail
Eau de Cologne Impériale	1830	(pronounced [od kɔlɔɲ ɛ̃peʁjal]): Guerlain first released a cologne by this name in 1830, but it came to widespread attention in 1853 when it was adopted by Empress Eugénie, the wife of French emperor Napoléon III. She liked the composition so much that she named Guerlain an official purveyor of colognes and toiletries to the imperial family. It is a classic cologne, with rich lime and lime-flower notes. Over a century and a half later, the cologne is still in regular production.
Jicky	1889	[ʒiki]: Said to be named either after the nickname Aimé Guerlain gave to his nephew, Jacques, or after a girl who broke Aimé’s heart as a student in England, Jicky is widely heralded as the first «modern» fragrance, and the first to be referred to as a perfume. Jicky was among the first fragrances to incorporate synthetic odorants (vanillin and coumarin) in its composition. The fragrance, an aromatic fougère, is known for its main notes of lavender and vanilla over animalic civet. Although marketed by Guerlain as a women’s fragrance, it was initially more successful with men and has proven to be a popular unisex fragrance. Over 120 years later, Jicky is still being sold, making it the oldest non-cologne fragrance in continuous production.
Eau de Cologne du Coq	1894	A classic cologne featuring prominent herbal, lavender and citrus notes.
Mouchoir de Monsieur	1904	An aromatic fougère created for men, this fragrance is close to the olfactory profile of Jicky, with aromatic lavender and a semi-oriental base. It was in very limited distribution for much of the 20th century, until becoming more widely available in the early 1990s.
Après l’Ondée	1906	[apʁɛ lɔ̃de]: The name of this fragrance translates to «after the rain shower.» Après L’Ondée is a light floral fragrance reminiscent of bitter almonds, with anise and herbal notes. Its composition includes violet, iris, heliotrope, hawthorn, anise, and herbal notes.
L’Heure Bleue	1912	[lœʁ blø]: Meaning «The Blue Hour,» L’Heure Bleue is a floral oriental fragrance with the dusky scent of candies and almond cake bought in an old world apothecary. Its powdery accord is similar to that of Après l’Ondée, but L’Heure Bleue is denser, richer, and has a more confectionery quality, while Apres l’Ondée is more floral in character and lighter and more transparent in feel. Both Apres l’Ondée and L’Heure Bleue are often perceived as melancholy scents.
Mitsouko	1919	[mitsuko]: Named after the heroine of the novel La Bataille by Claude Farrère, Mitsouko is said to herald the ending of World War I. Due to a bottle shortage at the end of the war, it was marketed in an identical bottle to that of L’Heure Bleue, and is sometimes considered to be that fragrance’s warm counterpart. The structure is based on Coty’s long-discontinued 1917 perfume Chypre, with added notes of peach and iris. With Coty’s fragrance no longer produced, Mitsouko is today considered by Luca Turin, a well-known perfume critic and reviewer, to be a reference fragrance in the chypre olfactive family.[16]
Eau de Fleurs de Cédrat	1920	This classic cologne foregrounds the notes of the citron fruit, with lemon, neroli, herbs and other notes.
Shalimar	1925	[ʃalimaʁ]: Named after the garden in Lahore, built by Shah Jahan in memory of his wife, Shalimar is one of the world’s most famous oriental fragrances, and was one of the first perfumes to successfully incorporate large amounts of vanillin in its composition. The scent of Shalimar is densely constructed, with a cascade of many notes, including bergamot, smoke, tonka bean, iris, and vanilla. This is the flagship perfume of the House of Guerlain
Liù	1929	Liù, named after a tragic character in Puccini’s opera Turandot, is an aldehydic floral that is said to have been inspired by the wildly successful Chanel No. 5, released in 1921. Like No. 5, it features aldehydes over a jasmine-rose heart accord. Though not especially well known, the fragrance has never been discontinued.
Sous le Vent	1933	The name is the French term for the Leeward Islands (Society Islands), the Îles Sous-le-Vent. This perfume was said to be composed for the dancer, singer and French Résistance member Joséphine Baker, who spent much of her life and career in France. It was a green chypre with notes of tarragon, galbanum and oakmoss, and was discontinued in 1972.
Vol de Nuit	1933	[vɔldənɥi]: Composed as a tribute to flight, celebrating the novel of the same name by pilot Antoine de Saint-Exupéry and Air France, this is a green, semi-oriental chypre with notes of iris, galbanum, daffodil, and oakmoss. Vol de Nuit’s use of galbanum made it the first fragrance to feature pronounced green notes.[17]
Véga	1936	This floral aldehydic fragrance was inspired by the star Vega, the brightest in the night sky. It featured aldehydes layered on a jasmine and ylang-ylang floral heart over woody notes. The fragrance was discontinued by the 1960s, but was rereleased in a limited edition in 2006.
Vetiver	1959	This was Jean-Paul Guerlain’s first fragrance after taking over as the in-house perfumer at Guerlain. A men’s fragrance, it was created to replace the company’s earlier Vetiver perfume and was originally targeted to the Mexican market. The original composition was an eau de cologne, but it was strengthened to an eau de toilette in the 1980s.
Chant d’Arômes	1962	Designed for and marketed to younger women, Chant d’Arômes («Song of Scents») is a soft chypre, with notes of citrus and honeysuckle over oakmoss, vetiver and jasmine. Quite popular in its day, the fragrance is now one of Guerlain’s more obscure.
Habit Rouge	1965	Considered the first oriental for men, Habit Rouge is a dense composition of bergamot, woods, spices, opopanax and amber. Like Vetiver, it was originally an eau de cologne but was reformulated as a men’s eau de toilette in the 1980s.
Chamade	1969	[ʃamad]: Named after the novel by Françoise Sagan, Chamade is a floral oriental fragrance with a pronounced topnote of galbanum introducing a core of notes including hyacinth, blackcurrant buds, and vanilla. In French, the word «Chamade» refers to a particular signal to an enemy made by rapid drumbeats or trumpets of an offer to negotiate surrender. Packaged in a bottle representing an upside-down heart pierced by an arrow, the fragrance is said to symbolize a total surrender to love.
Eau de Guerlain	1974	Eau de Guerlain is a unisex citrus scent inspired by classical colognes, such as Guerlain’s own Eau de Cologne Impérial, Eau de Cologne du Coq and Eau des Fleurs de Cédrat. Its notes include bergamot, lemon, verbena, neroli and oakmoss.
Parure	1975	In French, a parure is a matched set of jewelry, typically a necklace, brooch and earrings, sometimes with a bracelet and tiara. This is a fruity chypre fragrance featuring notes of plum, lilac, rose and oakmoss. Fading popularity, coupled with International Fragrance Association and European Union regulations on some of its ingredients, led to its discontinuation in the early 2000s.
Nahéma	1979	This floral oriental fragrance was inspired by the legend of a sultan who had twin daughters, the gentle and obedient Mahane and the fiery and passionate Nahéma. Built predominantly around rose notes, Nahéma was an early fragrance to feature damascenones, a set of newly discovered aromachemicals with a profound fruity-rose character. Like Parure, Nahéma was not a sales success, but the EdP remains available.
Jardins de Bagatelle	1983	Named after a formal garden planted within the Bois de Bologne on the western outskirts of Paris, Jardins de Bagatelle is a white floral with notes of magnolia, jasmine, tuberose and sandalwood.
Derby	1985	A dry, woody-leather scent for men, Derby was not a sales success for Guerlain. The composition features spices, sandalwood, leather, oakmoss, birch sap and tobacco. The scent was periodically available from the 1990s but discontinued in 2021.
Samsara	1989	[sɑ̃saʁa]: Composed by Jean-Paul Guerlain and Anne-Marie Saget, this is a heady oriental fragrance featuring main notes of jasmine, ylang-ylang, and sandalwood.[18] The name is a reference to the cycle of birth, life, death, and rebirth or reincarnation in Hinduism and many other religions in South Asia.
Héritage	1992	This is an aromatic, spicy, woody scent for men, with notes of lavender, coriander, patchouli and sandalwood. Released as an EdT, it’s one of a few Guerlain masculines that later became available as an EdP.
Champs-Élysées	1996	Though it borrows the name of a 1904 Guerlain fragrance, Parfum des Champs-Elysées, the 1996 Champs-Elysées was an entirely new composition. The first major fragrance by the company released after the sale to LVMH and the first not to be composed by a member of the Guerlain family, it is a bright, sweet mimosa-based floral.
Aqua Allegoria Pamplelune	1999	Pamplelune was one of the original five Aqua Allegoria fragrances released by Guerlain in 1999 as simple, fresh, light compositions designed to appeal to younger consumers. It is a sunny grapefruit-dominant citrus fragrance, with notes of grapefruit, blackcurrant buds and patchouli.
Aqua Allegoria Herba Fresca	1999	The second of the original five Aqua Allegoria fragrances that has never been out of production, Herba Fresca is a light, fresh green fragrance with herbal notes, green tea and spearmint.
Mahora / Mayotte	2000	A heady floral oriental fragrance of jasmine, tuberose, ylang-ylang and vanilla, Mahora is named after the French demonym for the people of the island of Mayotte, an overseas department of France located in the Indian Ocean off the coast of Southeast Africa. Though a major launch for Guerlain, the fragrance sold poorly and was discontinued quickly. In 2005, it reappeared under the name Mayotte in an exclusive line, but was discontinued again in the mid-2010s.
L’Instant de Guerlain	2003	Another floral oriental in the range, L’Instant begins with notes of citrus and honey before moving into an accord of magnolia and white flowers over vanilla and amber.
Insolence	2006	Insolence harkens back to Guerlain’s early floral orientals like L’Heure Bleue, with notes of violet, iris, and orange blossom, while adding new, modern notes of red fruit and white musk.
Guerlain Homme	2008	Guerlain Homme’s top notes are said to represent a «mojito accord,» with sweet lime, peppermint and rum, over a woody base of patchouli, cedar and vetiver.
Idylle	2009	The first major fragrance composed by Thierry Wasser after taking over as the in-house perfumer at Guerlain in 2008, Idylle is a soft, modern chypre with fruity notes, rose, patchouli and white moss.
La Petite Robe Noire	2012	This fragrance, memorializing the «little black dress,» was born after the accidental, unexpected success of a limited-edition fragrance by the same name composed by Delphine Jelk and released without fanfare in 2009. Its popularity convinced Guerlain to release a second limited edition in 2011, and when that also proved successful, in 2012 the company released a tweaked version of the 2009 Petite Robe Noire composition as a mass-market fragrance.
L’Homme Idéal	2014	Guerlain’s first major launch for men in six years, L’Homme Idéal («The Ideal Man») is a relaxed fougère with citrus top notes and a heart of sweet amaretto notes over cedarwood and patchouli.
Mon Guerlain	2017	Originally inspired as a modern-day counterpart to Jicky, Mon Guerlain is a sweet oriental featuring lavender, jasmine, vanilla and sandalwood.

References[edit]

Further reading[edit]

• Collectif, Dictionnaire des parfums — 10e édition 1990–1991, Sermadiras, 1990
• Stamelman, R: «Perfume – Joy, Scandal, Sin. A cultural history of fragrance from 1750 to the present day», Rizzoli, 2006
• Élisabeth de Feydeau, «Le roman des Guerlain Parfumeurs de Paris», Flammarion, 2017, 363 p. (lire en ligne)
• Pierre-Roland Saint-Dizier (scénario), Li-An (dessin), «Guerlain, Le prince des parfums, 1ère époque, Pierre-François-Pascal (1798/1864)», bande dessinée, Glénat, 2018
• Laurence Benaïm, «Paris, capitale de Guerlain», Flammarion, 2021

External links[edit]

• Official website
• Corporate webpage of LVMH, owner of Guerlain

Guerlain S.A.

Type	Subsidiary
Industry	Cosmetics
Founded	1828 (192 years ago)
Founder	Monsieur Pierre-François-Pascal Guerlain
Headquarters	Paris, France
Products	Perfumes Cosmetics Skin care Hair care
Revenue	€402.2 million (2012)
Parent	LVMH
Website	www.guerlain.com

Guerlain (French pronunciation: ​[ɡɛʁlɛ̃]) is a French perfume, cosmetics and skincare house, which is among the oldest in the world. Many traditional Guerlain fragrances are characterized by a common olfactory accord known as the «Guerlinade» (fr).^{[citation needed]} The house was founded in Paris in 1828 by the perfumer Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain. It was run by the Guerlain family until 1994, when it was bought by the French multinational company LVMH. Its flagship store is 68, Avenue des Champs-Elysées in Paris.^[1]

History[edit]

The House of Guerlain was owned and managed by members of the Guerlain family from its inception in 1828 to 1994. It was acquired in 1994 by the LVMH group, a French multinational investment corporation specializing in luxury brands.^{[citation needed]}

Beginning[edit]

The House of Guerlain was founded in 1828, when Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain opened his perfume store at 42, rue de Rivoli in Paris. As both the founder and first perfumer of the house, Pierre-François composed and manufactured custom fragrances with the help of his two sons, Aimé and Gabriel. Through continued success and the patronage of members in high society, Guerlain opened its flagship store at 15, rue de la Paix in 1840, and put its mark on the Parisian fashion scene.

The success of the house under Pierre-François peaked in 1853 with the creation of Eau de Cologne Impériale for French Emperor Napoleon III and his Spanish-French wife Empress Eugénie. This perfume earned Pierre-François the prestigious title of being His Majesty’s Official Perfumer. Guerlain went on to create perfumes for Queen Victoria of the United Kingdom and Queen Isabella II of Spain, among other royalty.^{[citation needed]}

Second generation[edit]

With the death of Pierre-François in 1864, the house was left to his sons Aimé Guerlain and Gabriel Guerlain. The roles of perfumer and manager were divided between the two brothers, with Gabriel managing and further expanding the house, and Aimé becoming the master perfumer. The House of Guerlain thus began a long tradition whereby the position of master perfumer was handed down through the Guerlain family.

As Guerlain’s second generation in-house perfumer, Aimé was the creator of many classic compositions, including Fleur d’Italie (1884), Rococo (1887) and Eau de Cologne du Coq (1894). However, many would argue that his greatest composition was 1889’s Jicky, the first fragrance described as a «parfum» rather than an eau de cologne, and among the first to use synthetic ingredients alongside natural extracts.

Third generation[edit]

The business was handed down to the sons of Gabriel Guerlain: Jacques Guerlain and Pierre Guerlain. Jacques, Aimé’s nephew, became Guerlain’s third master perfumer; he was the author of many of Guerlain’s most famous classics, which are still held in high esteem in the modern perfume industry. Many of his perfumes are still sold and marketed today. Among Jacques Guerlain’s most important creations are Mouchoir de Monsieur (1904), Après L’Ondée (1906), L’Heure Bleue (1912), Mitsouko (1919), Guerlain’s flagship fragrance Shalimar (1925), and Vol de Nuit (1933). Jacques composed his final perfume, Ode (1955), with the assistance of his grandson, the then-18-year-old Jean-Paul Guerlain.

Fourth generation[edit]

Jean-Paul Guerlain was the last family master perfumer. He created Guerlain’s classic men’s fragrances Vétiver (1959) and Habit Rouge (1965). He also created Chant d’Arômes (1962) and Chamade (1969). From 1975 to 1989, he collaborated with perfumer Anne-Marie Saget, composing Nahema (1979), Jardins de Bagatelle (1983), Derby (1985) and Samsara (1989).^[2] His later work includes Héritage (1992), Coriolan (1998) and Vétiver pour Elle (2004). Jean-Paul Guerlain retired in 2002, but continued to serve as advisor to his successor until 2010, when he was terminated after making a racist remark on French television regarding the inspiration for his scent Samsara.^[3] With no heir from within the Guerlain family to take over, the role of master perfumer is no longer tied to family succession.

Purchase by the LVMH Group[edit]

In a decision widely seen as a break with tradition, the Guerlain family sold the company to the luxury goods conglomerate Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton (LVMH) in 1994. Though Jean-Paul Guerlain remained as an in-house perfumer until 2002, other perfumers were brought in after 1994 to compose perfumes for Guerlain, and Jean-Paul had to submit his compositions against those of others. Fans of the house viewed the LVMH purchase as a step towards the cheapening and commercialization of the legendary firm’s legacy. Most were unhappy with the first post-LVMH release, the 1996 sweet mimosa floral Champs-Elysées, composed by Olivier Cresp, whose entry was selected over that of Jean-Paul Guerlain.

Among the outside perfumers to compose perfumes for the firm after 1994 was Mathilde Laurent, who worked for Guerlain at the end of the 1990s and in the early 2000s. She composed Aqua Allegorica Pamplelune (1999) and Shalimar Light (2003, reattributed to Jean-Paul Guerlain and relaunched in 2004 following reformulation). Maurice Roucel, a perfumer of Symrise, composed L’Instant de Guerlain (2004) and Insolence (2006). As the niece of Jean-Jacques Guerlain, some thought Patricia de Nicolaï would have been a candidate for the position of Guerlain’s in-house perfumer,^[4] though the presence of a glass ceiling in the company prevented her selection for position.^[5]

In May 2008, Thierry Wasser was named the in-house perfumer for Guerlain. Wasser, a Swiss perfumer who used to work for Firmenich, created Iris Ganache (2007) and Quand Vient la Pluie (2007) for Guerlain before his appointment the following year. Jean-Paul Guerlain stayed on in an advisory consultant role, both for fragrance design and ingredients. Wasser was to work closely with Sylvaine Delacourte, Guerlain’s Artistic Director.^[6] In 2010, the LVMH Group cut ties with Jean-Paul Guerlain as their consultant due to his racist comments on French television.^[7][8][9]

Russian model Natalia Vodianova has been the face of Guerlain campaigns since 2008. Vodianova began advertising Shalimar to celebrate the perfume house’s 180th birthday.^[10] For the Fall 2013 makeup collection, Olivier Echaudemaison, Guerlian’s Creative Director of Makeup since 2000^[11] commented «Every season we fantasize with Natalia’s image and invent for her a new role. For us, it is not just a model, which advertises cosmetics, but above all, a great actress».^[12]
In October 2011, the company named Malaysian actress Michelle Yeoh as a new spokesmodel. Yeoh is an ambassador for the Orchidée Impériale line of skincare.^[13]

Products[edit]

Guerlain’s creations have long influenced the trends of perfumery with fragrances such as Jicky, Shalimar, Vétiver,and La Petite Robe Noire. Guerlain is among the few older houses (such as Caron) that exist solely to produce and market perfumes. Many brands in the perfume industry, such as Chanel and Jean Patou are in fact divisions of fashion houses or multinational conglomerates that license the brand name. Alongside its fragrances, today Guerlain has expanded to offer a large range of makeup and skincare. Guerlain products are available across the world at serviced counters within department stores, and at beauty stores such as fellow LVMH brand Sephora. Guerlain also maintains thirteen international beauty and spa ’boutiques’, five within France (two being in Paris).^[14]

Perfumes[edit]

Since its foundation in 1828, Guerlain has created over 600 fragrances.^[15] Among the company’s most notable (in terms of longevity, sales or cultural impact) are:

Name	Year	Detail
Eau de Cologne Impériale	1830	(pronounced [od kɔlɔɲ ɛ̃peʁjal]): Guerlain first released a cologne by this name in 1830, but it came to widespread attention in 1853 when it was adopted by Empress Eugénie, the wife of French emperor Napoléon III. She liked the composition so much that she named Guerlain an official purveyor of colognes and toiletries to the imperial family. It is a classic cologne, with rich lime and lime-flower notes. Over a century and a half later, the cologne is still in regular production.
Jicky	1889	[ʒiki]: Said to be named either after the nickname Aimé Guerlain gave to his nephew, Jacques, or after a girl who broke Aimé’s heart as a student in England, Jicky is widely heralded as the first «modern» fragrance, and the first to be referred to as a perfume. Jicky was among the first fragrances to incorporate synthetic odorants (vanillin and coumarin) in its composition. The fragrance, an aromatic fougère, is known for its main notes of lavender and vanilla over animalic civet. Although marketed by Guerlain as a women’s fragrance, it was initially more successful with men and has proven to be a popular unisex fragrance. Over 120 years later, Jicky is still being sold, making it the oldest non-cologne fragrance in continuous production.
Eau de Cologne du Coq	1894	A classic cologne featuring prominent herbal, lavender and citrus notes.
Mouchoir de Monsieur	1904	An aromatic fougère created for men, this fragrance is close to the olfactory profile of Jicky, with aromatic lavender and a semi-oriental base. It was in very limited distribution for much of the 20th century, until becoming more widely available in the early 1990s.
Après l’Ondée	1906	[apʁɛ lɔ̃de]: The name of this fragrance translates to «after the rain shower.» Après L’Ondée is a light floral fragrance reminiscent of bitter almonds, with anise and herbal notes. Its composition includes violet, iris, heliotrope, hawthorn, anise, and herbal notes.
L’Heure Bleue	1912	[lœʁ blø]: Meaning «The Blue Hour,» L’Heure Bleue is a floral oriental fragrance with the dusky scent of candies and almond cake bought in an old world apothecary. Its powdery accord is similar to that of Après l’Ondée, but L’Heure Bleue is denser, richer, and has a more confectionery quality, while Apres l’Ondée is more floral in character and lighter and more transparent in feel. Both Apres l’Ondée and L’Heure Bleue are often perceived as melancholy scents.
Mitsouko	1919	[mitsuko]: Named after the heroine of the novel La Bataille by Claude Farrère, Mitsouko is said to herald the ending of World War I. Due to a bottle shortage at the end of the war, it was marketed in an identical bottle to that of L’Heure Bleue, and is sometimes considered to be that fragrance’s warm counterpart. The structure is based on Coty’s long-discontinued 1917 perfume Chypre, with added notes of peach and iris. With Coty’s fragrance no longer produced, Mitsouko is today considered by Luca Turin, a well-known perfume critic and reviewer, to be a reference fragrance in the chypre olfactive family.[16]
Eau de Fleurs de Cédrat	1920	This classic cologne foregrounds the notes of the citron fruit, with lemon, neroli, herbs and other notes.
Shalimar	1925	[ʃalimaʁ]: Named after the garden in Lahore, built by Shah Jahan in memory of his wife, Shalimar is one of the world’s most famous oriental fragrances, and was one of the first perfumes to successfully incorporate large amounts of vanillin in its composition. The scent of Shalimar is densely constructed, with a cascade of many notes, including bergamot, smoke, tonka bean, iris, and vanilla. This is the flagship perfume of the House of Guerlain
Liù	1929	Liù, named after a tragic character in Puccini’s opera Turandot, is an aldehydic floral that is said to have been inspired by the wildly successful Chanel No. 5, released in 1921. Like No. 5, it features aldehydes over a jasmine-rose heart accord. Though not especially well known, the fragrance has never been discontinued.
Sous le Vent	1933	The name is the French term for the Leeward Islands (Society Islands), the Îles Sous-le-Vent. This perfume was said to be composed for the dancer, singer and French Résistance member Joséphine Baker, who spent much of her life and career in France. It was a green chypre with notes of tarragon, galbanum and oakmoss, and was discontinued in 1972.
Vol de Nuit	1933	[vɔldənɥi]: Composed as a tribute to flight, celebrating the novel of the same name by pilot Antoine de Saint-Exupéry and Air France, this is a green, semi-oriental chypre with notes of iris, galbanum, daffodil, and oakmoss. Vol de Nuit’s use of galbanum made it the first fragrance to feature pronounced green notes.[17]
Véga	1936	This floral aldehydic fragrance was inspired by the star Vega, the brightest in the night sky. It featured aldehydes layered on a jasmine and ylang-ylang floral heart over woody notes. The fragrance was discontinued by the 1960s, but was rereleased in a limited edition in 2006.
Vetiver	1959	This was Jean-Paul Guerlain’s first fragrance after taking over as the in-house perfumer at Guerlain. A men’s fragrance, it was created to replace the company’s earlier Vetiver perfume and was originally targeted to the Mexican market. The original composition was an eau de cologne, but it was strengthened to an eau de toilette in the 1980s.
Chant d’Arômes	1962	Designed for and marketed to younger women, Chant d’Arômes («Song of Scents») is a soft chypre, with notes of citrus and honeysuckle over oakmoss, vetiver and jasmine. Quite popular in its day, the fragrance is now one of Guerlain’s more obscure.
Habit Rouge	1965	Considered the first oriental for men, Habit Rouge is a dense composition of bergamot, woods, spices, opopanax and amber. Like Vetiver, it was originally an eau de cologne but was reformulated as a men’s eau de toilette in the 1980s.
Chamade	1969	[ʃamad]: Named after the novel by Françoise Sagan, Chamade is a floral oriental fragrance with a pronounced topnote of galbanum introducing a core of notes including hyacinth, blackcurrant buds, and vanilla. In French, the word «Chamade» refers to a particular signal to an enemy made by rapid drumbeats or trumpets of an offer to negotiate surrender. Packaged in a bottle representing an upside-down heart pierced by an arrow, the fragrance is said to symbolize a total surrender to love.
Eau de Guerlain	1974	Eau de Guerlain is a unisex citrus scent inspired by classical colognes, such as Guerlain’s own Eau de Cologne Impérial, Eau de Cologne du Coq and Eau des Fleurs de Cédrat. Its notes include bergamot, lemon, verbena, neroli and oakmoss.
Parure	1975	In French, a parure is a matched set of jewelry, typically a necklace, brooch and earrings, sometimes with a bracelet and tiara. This is a fruity chypre fragrance featuring notes of plum, lilac, rose and oakmoss. Fading popularity, coupled with International Fragrance Association and European Union regulations on some of its ingredients, led to its discontinuation in the early 2000s.
Nahéma	1979	This floral oriental fragrance was inspired by the legend of a sultan who had twin daughters, the gentle and obedient Mahane and the fiery and passionate Nahéma. Built predominantly around rose notes, Nahéma was an early fragrance to feature damascenones, a set of newly discovered aromachemicals with a profound fruity-rose character. Like Parure, Nahéma was not a sales success, but the EdP remains available.
Jardins de Bagatelle	1983	Named after a formal garden planted within the Bois de Bologne on the western outskirts of Paris, Jardins de Bagatelle is a white floral with notes of magnolia, jasmine, tuberose and sandalwood.
Derby	1985	A dry, woody-leather scent for men, Derby was not a sales success for Guerlain. The composition features spices, sandalwood, leather, oakmoss, birch sap and tobacco. The scent was periodically available from the 1990s but discontinued in 2021.
Samsara	1989	[sɑ̃saʁa]: Composed by Jean-Paul Guerlain and Anne-Marie Saget, this is a heady oriental fragrance featuring main notes of jasmine, ylang-ylang, and sandalwood.[18] The name is a reference to the cycle of birth, life, death, and rebirth or reincarnation in Hinduism and many other religions in South Asia.
Héritage	1992	This is an aromatic, spicy, woody scent for men, with notes of lavender, coriander, patchouli and sandalwood. Released as an EdT, it’s one of a few Guerlain masculines that later became available as an EdP.
Champs-Élysées	1996	Though it borrows the name of a 1904 Guerlain fragrance, Parfum des Champs-Elysées, the 1996 Champs-Elysées was an entirely new composition. The first major fragrance by the company released after the sale to LVMH and the first not to be composed by a member of the Guerlain family, it is a bright, sweet mimosa-based floral.
Aqua Allegoria Pamplelune	1999	Pamplelune was one of the original five Aqua Allegoria fragrances released by Guerlain in 1999 as simple, fresh, light compositions designed to appeal to younger consumers. It is a sunny grapefruit-dominant citrus fragrance, with notes of grapefruit, blackcurrant buds and patchouli.
Aqua Allegoria Herba Fresca	1999	The second of the original five Aqua Allegoria fragrances that has never been out of production, Herba Fresca is a light, fresh green fragrance with herbal notes, green tea and spearmint.
Mahora / Mayotte	2000	A heady floral oriental fragrance of jasmine, tuberose, ylang-ylang and vanilla, Mahora is named after the French demonym for the people of the island of Mayotte, an overseas department of France located in the Indian Ocean off the coast of Southeast Africa. Though a major launch for Guerlain, the fragrance sold poorly and was discontinued quickly. In 2005, it reappeared under the name Mayotte in an exclusive line, but was discontinued again in the mid-2010s.
L’Instant de Guerlain	2003	Another floral oriental in the range, L’Instant begins with notes of citrus and honey before moving into an accord of magnolia and white flowers over vanilla and amber.
Insolence	2006	Insolence harkens back to Guerlain’s early floral orientals like L’Heure Bleue, with notes of violet, iris, and orange blossom, while adding new, modern notes of red fruit and white musk.
Guerlain Homme	2008	Guerlain Homme’s top notes are said to represent a «mojito accord,» with sweet lime, peppermint and rum, over a woody base of patchouli, cedar and vetiver.
Idylle	2009	The first major fragrance composed by Thierry Wasser after taking over as the in-house perfumer at Guerlain in 2008, Idylle is a soft, modern chypre with fruity notes, rose, patchouli and white moss.
La Petite Robe Noire	2012	This fragrance, memorializing the «little black dress,» was born after the accidental, unexpected success of a limited-edition fragrance by the same name composed by Delphine Jelk and released without fanfare in 2009. Its popularity convinced Guerlain to release a second limited edition in 2011, and when that also proved successful, in 2012 the company released a tweaked version of the 2009 Petite Robe Noire composition as a mass-market fragrance.
L’Homme Idéal	2014	Guerlain’s first major launch for men in six years, L’Homme Idéal («The Ideal Man») is a relaxed fougère with citrus top notes and a heart of sweet amaretto notes over cedarwood and patchouli.
Mon Guerlain	2017	Originally inspired as a modern-day counterpart to Jicky, Mon Guerlain is a sweet oriental featuring lavender, jasmine, vanilla and sandalwood.

References[edit]

Further reading[edit]

• Collectif, Dictionnaire des parfums — 10e édition 1990–1991, Sermadiras, 1990
• Stamelman, R: «Perfume – Joy, Scandal, Sin. A cultural history of fragrance from 1750 to the present day», Rizzoli, 2006
• Élisabeth de Feydeau, «Le roman des Guerlain Parfumeurs de Paris», Flammarion, 2017, 363 p. (lire en ligne)
• Pierre-Roland Saint-Dizier (scénario), Li-An (dessin), «Guerlain, Le prince des parfums, 1ère époque, Pierre-François-Pascal (1798/1864)», bande dessinée, Glénat, 2018
• Laurence Benaïm, «Paris, capitale de Guerlain», Flammarion, 2021

External links[edit]

• Official website
• Corporate webpage of LVMH, owner of Guerlain

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Герлен

Герлена

Герленом

Guerlain

LVMH purchased the company in 1994 and Guerlain remained as master perfumer until he retired in 2002.

LVMH приобрел компанию в 1994 году, Герлен продолжал играть роль главного парфюмера вплоть до 2002 года, пока не вышел на пенсию.

Two years later Aimé Guerlain ushered in the modern era of perfumes.

Двумя годами позже Эме Герлен возвестил о начале современной эпохи в парфюмерии.

Mitsouko was created by Jacques Guerlain in 1919.

Духи Guerlain Mitsouko были созданы Жаком Герленом в далеком 1919 году.

In 1925, the Shalimar bottle designed by Raymond Guerlain won first prize at the Paris Decorative Arts Exhibition.

В 1925 году флакон Shalimar, созданный Раймоном Герленом, получил Первый приз на Международной выставке декоративно-прикладного искусства в Париже.

Initially, Guerlain sold products imported from England — already attracting an upscale clientèle.

Поначалу Герлен продавал товары, импортированные из Англии, уже тогда привлекая состоятельную клиентуру.

In the 1950s Jacques Guerlain prepared to pass along the family tradition.

В 1950-х годах Жак Герлен готовился передать семейную традицию.

Lawyers for SOS Racism said Guerlain abused the national platform he was given.

Адвокаты антирасистской организации SOS Racism заявили, что Герлен злоупотребил предоставленной ему «национальной платформой».

Soon after Guerlain established a new factory at Colombes.

Вскоре после этого Герлен открыл новую фабрику в Коломбе.

Visitors will see about 200 pieces of graphics collected by Daniel and Florence Guerlain.

Выставка будет включать около 200 произведений графики, собранных Даниелем и Флоранс Герлен.

Schlesser collaborated with French perfumer Thierry Vasseur, who also lent his expertise to the House of Guerlain in 2008.

Шлессер сотрудничал с французским парфюмером Тьерри Вассером, который также использовал свой опыт в Доме Герлен в 2008 году.

It’s L’Heure Blueue, by Guerlain.

It sponsors the Design Award of Daniel and Florence Guerlain.

Он спонсирует премию за дизайн Даниэля и Флоренс Герлен.

GUERLAIN may collect personal data via its website from users requesting documents, subscribing to our newsletter or press releases, or creating an account or when ordering products on the website.

Компания «ГЕРЛЕН» вправе собирать через свой интернет-сайт персональные данные пользователей, запрашивающих документы, подписывающихся на нашу новостную рассылку или пресс-релизы, создающих учетную запись или заказывающих продукцию через интернет-сайт.

A complete catalog of «Douglas Rivoli» consists of 450 brands, among them the world’s best sellers — CHANEL, LANCOME, DIOR, YSL, Estee Lauder, SHISEIDO, GUERLAIN and many others.

А полный каталог «Дуглас Риволи» состоит из 450 брендов, среди которых и мировые лидеры продаж — CHANEL, LANCOME, DIOR, YSL, Estee Lauder, SHISEIDO, GUERLAIN и многие другие.

I therefore made several very interesting internships but never within the Guerlain business.

Поэтому, в дальнейшем, я прошла несколько очень интересных стажировок, но никогда не в бизнесе Guerlain.

Irma says his coat smells of Guerlain.

Ирма говорит, что его пальто пахнет «Герленом».

Guerlain began in 1828 as a perfume store in Paris.

Марка была создана в 1828 году, когда в Париже был открыт парфюмерный магазин.

Like Guerlain, I like amber and vanilla notes.

Как Guerlain, я люблю амбровые и ванильные ноты.

Guerlain is a luxury house of daring creators, producing mythical creations with timeless savoir-faire.

Guerlain — это роскошный дом смелых создателей, создающий мифические творения, неподвластным времени.

Since its foundation in 1828, Guerlain has created over 300 fragrances.

Всего с 1828 года дом создал более 300 ароматов.

Ничего не найдено для этого значения.

Результатов: 232. Точных совпадений: 232. Затраченное время: 54 мс

Documents

Корпоративные решения

Спряжение

Синонимы

Корректор

Справка и о нас

Индекс слова: 1-300, 301-600, 601-900

Индекс выражения: 1-400, 401-800, 801-1200

Индекс фразы: 1-400, 401-800, 801-1200

Англо-русский словарь

Yes, and my Guerlain foundation.

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Guerlain SA

Основана	1828 г. (192 года назад)
Основатель	Месье Пьер-Франсуа-Паскаль Герлен
Главный офис	Леваллуа-Перре, Франция
Продукция	Парфюмерия. Косметика. Уход за кожей. Уход за волосами
Выручка	402,2 миллиона евро (2012)
Материнская компания	LVMH
Веб-сайт	Домашняя страница Guerlain

Guerlain (французское произношение: ) — это один из старейших в мире французских производителей парфюмерии, косметики и средств ухода за кожей. Многие традиционные ароматы Guerlain характеризуются общим обонятельным аккордом, известным как «Guerlinade». Дом был основан в Париже в 1828 году парфюмером Пьером-Франсуа Паскалем Герленом. Им управляла семья Герлен до 1994 года, когда он был куплен французской транснациональной компанией LVMH. Его флагманский магазин находится на Елисейских полях, 68 в Париже.

Содержание

• 1 История
  • 1,1 Начало
  • 1,2 Второе поколение
  • 1,3 Третье поколение
  • 1,4 Четвертое поколение
  • 1,5 Покупка группой LVMH
• 2 продукта
  • 2.1 Духи
• 3 Ссылки
• 4 Дополнительная литература
• 5 Внешние ссылки

История

L’Heure Bleue от Guerlain

Дом Guerlain принадлежала и управлялась членами семьи Guerlain с момента ее основания в 1828–1994 годах. В 1994 году она была приобретена группой LVMH, французской транснациональной инвестиционной корпорацией, специализирующейся на брендах класса люкс.

Guerlain бутик на Елисейских полях, в Париже

Начало

Дом Guerlain был основан в 1828 году, когда Пьер-Франсуа Паскаль Герлен открыл свой парфюмерный магазин в доме 42, rue de Rivoli в Париже. Как основатель и первый парфюмер дома, Пьер-Франсуа сочинял и производил индивидуальные ароматы с помощью двух своих сыновей, Эме и Габриэля. Благодаря постоянному успеху и покровительству представителей высшего общества, Guerlain в 1840 году открыл свой флагманский магазин по адресу rue de la Paix, 15, и оставил свой след на парижской модной сцене.

Успех дома при Пьере-Франсуа достиг пика в 1853 году с созданием Eau de Cologne Impériale для французского императора Наполеона III и его испано-французской жены императрицы Евгении. Этот аромат принес Пьеру-Франсуа престижное звание официального парфюмера Его Величества. Guerlain продолжил создание духов для королевы Виктории Соединенного Королевства и королевы Испании Изабеллы II, а также других членов королевской семьи.

Второе поколение

После смерти Пьера-Франсуа в 1864 году дом был оставлен его сыновьям Эме Герлену и Габриэлю Герлену. Роли парфюмера и менеджера были разделены между двумя братьями: Габриэль управлял домом и продолжал его расширять, а Эме стал главным парфюмером. Таким образом, Дом Guerlain положил начало давней традиции, согласно которой должность мастера-парфюмера передавалась по наследству семье Guerlain.

Как собственный парфюмер Guerlain во втором поколении, Эме был автором многих классических композиций, в том числе Fleur d’Italie (1884), Rococo (1887) и Eau de Cologne du Coq (1894). Однако многие будут утверждать, что его величайшей композицией был Jicky 1889 года, первый аромат, описанный как «парфюм», а не одеколон, и один из первых, в котором синтетические ингредиенты использовались наряду с натуральными экстрактами.

Третье поколение

Mitsouko от Guerlain

Бизнес перешел к сыновьям Габриэля Герлена: Жаку Герлену и Пьеру Герлену. Жак, племянник Эме, стал третьим парфюмером Guerlain; он был автором многих из самых известных классических произведений Guerlain, которые до сих пор пользуются большим уважением в современной парфюмерной индустрии. Многие из его духов все еще продаются и продаются сегодня. Среди самых важных творений Жака Герлена — Mouchoir de Monsieur (1904), Après L’Ondée (1906), L’Heure Bleue (1912), Mitsouko (1919), флагманский аромат Guerlain Shalimar (1925 г.) и Vol de Nuit (1933 г.). Жак написал свой последний аромат, Ode (1955), с помощью своего внука, тогда еще 18-летнего Жан-Поля Герлена.

Четвертое поколение

Жан-Поль Герлен был последним семейным парфюмером-мастером. Он создал классические мужские ароматы Guerlain — Vétiver (1959) и Habit Rouge (1965). Он также создал Chant d’Arômes (1962), Chamade (1969), Nahéma (1979), Jardins de Bagatelle (1983) и Samsara (1989), а также Héritage и Coriolan в 1990-х годах. Жан-Поль Герлен ушел на пенсию в 2002 году, но продолжал служить советником своего преемника до 2010 года, когда его уволили после того, как он сделал расистское замечание по французскому телевидению относительно того, что послужило источником вдохновения для его аромата Samsara. Поскольку наследник из семьи Guerlain не вступил во владение, роль парфюмера больше не связана с преемственностью семьи.

Покупка LVMH Group

В решении, которое широко расценивается как нарушение традиций, семья Герлен продала компанию конгломерату предметов роскоши Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton (LVMH) в 1994 году. Хотя Жан-Поль Герлен оставался собственным парфюмером до 2002 года, после 1994 года были приглашены другие парфюмеры для создания ароматов для Guerlain, и Жан-Поль должен был представить свои композиции против этих других. Поклонники дома восприняли покупку LVMH как шаг к удешевлению и коммерциализации наследия легендарной фирмы. Большинство из них были недовольны первым релизом, выпущенным после LVMH, сладкой мимозой с цветочными мотивами Champs-Elysées 1996 года, написанной Оливье Креспом, чья запись была выбрана выше, чем Жан-Поль Герлен.

Guerlain в австралийском универмаге David Jones в Сиднее

Среди внешних парфюмеров, которые создавали ароматы для фирмы после 1994 года, была Матильда Лоран, которая работала в Guerlain. в конце 1990-х — начале 2000-х гг. Она сочинила Aqua Allegorica Pamplelune (1999) и Shalimar Light (2003, приписывается Жан-Полю Герлену и перезапущена в 2004 году после изменения формулировки). Морис Русель, парфюмер Symrise, написал L’Instant de Guerlain (2004) и Insolence (2006). Как племянница Жан-Жака Герлена, некоторые думали, что Патрисия де Николаи могла бы стать кандидатом на должность внутреннего парфюмера Guerlain, несмотря на наличие стеклянного потолка в салоне.

В мае 2008 г. Тьерри Вассер был назван внутренним парфюмером Guerlain. Вассер, швейцарский парфюмер, который раньше работал на Firmenich, создал Iris Ganache (2007) и Quand Vient la Pluie (2007) для Guerlain до своего назначения в следующем году. Жан-Поль Герлен остался в роли консультанта как по дизайну ароматов, так и по ингредиентам. Вассер будет тесно сотрудничать с художественным руководителем Guerlain. В 2010 году LVMH Group разорвала отношения с Жан-Полем Герленом в качестве консультанта из-за его расистских комментариев на французском телевидении.

Российская модель Наталья Водянова была лицом рекламных кампаний Guerlain с 2008 года. Водянова начала рекламировать Shalimar к 180-летию парфюмерного дома. Оливье Эшодемезон, креативный директор по макияжу Guerlian с 2000 года, отметил: «Каждый сезон мы фантазируем с образом Натальи и придумываем для нее новую роль. Для нас это не просто модель, которая рекламирует косметику, а нечто большее. все, прекрасная актриса ». В октябре 2011 года компания назвала малазийскую актрису Мишель Йео в качестве новой модели. Йео является послом линии по уходу за кожей Orchidée Impériale.

Продукция

Стойка Guerlain в SYD Airport Tax Duty Free

Творения Guerlain уже давно повлияли на тенденции парфюмерии с такими ароматами, как Джики, Шалимар и Ветивер. Guerlain — один из немногих старых домов (например, Caron ), которые существуют исключительно для производства и продажи духов. Многие бренды парфюмерной промышленности, такие как Chanel и Jean Patou, на самом деле являются подразделениями домов моды или многонациональными конгломератами, которые лицензируют торговую марку. Помимо ароматов, сегодня Guerlain расширил ассортимент косметики и средств ухода за кожей. Продукты Guerlain доступны по всему миру на обслуживаемых стойках в универмагах, а также в магазинах косметики, таких как другой бренд LMVH Sephora. Guerlain также имеет тринадцать международных салонов красоты и спа-салонов, пять из которых находятся во Франции (два — в Париже).

Vétiver by Guerlain. Дизайн стеклянного флакона в 2000 году. Маленькая стойка в Новой Зеландии универмаг Smith Caughey’s на Квин-стрит, Окленд

Perfumes

• Eau de Cologne Impériale (1853) (произносится ): Guerlain создал этот классический одеколон с богатыми нотами лайма и цветов лайма, в подарок императрице Евгении, жене французского императора Наполеона III. Композиция ей настолько понравилась, что она назвала Guerlain официальным поставщиком одеколонов и туалетных принадлежностей императорской семье. Спустя более полутора веков одеколон все еще находится в регулярном производстве.
• Джики (1889) : Говорят, он назван в честь прозвища Эме Герлен. его племяннику Жаку или девушке, разбившей сердце Эме во время учебы в Англии, Jicky широко провозглашается первым «современным» ароматом и первым парфюмом. Jicky был одним из первых ароматов, включивших в свой состав синтетические отдушки (ванилин и кумарин ), и некоторые описывают его как «совершенный» фужер. Аромат известен своими основными нотами лаванды и ванили над животными циветтой. Хотя Guerlain продавал его как женский аромат, изначально он пользовался большим успехом у мужчин и оказался популярным ароматом унисекс. Спустя более 120 лет Jicky все еще продается, что делает его самым старым ароматом (кроме одеколонов), производимым непрерывно.
• Après L’Ondée (1906) : Значение «После ливня» Après L’Ondée — легкий цветочный аромат, напоминающий горький миндаль, с нотками аниса и трав. Его композиция включает ноты фиалки, розы, гелиотропа, боярышника, аниса и цитрусовых.
• L’Heure Bleue (1912) : Значение «Синий час, «L’Heure Bleue — это цветочный восточный аромат с тусклым ароматом конфет и миндального пирога, купленного в старом мире аптекарем. Его пудровый аккорд похож на аромат Après l’Ondée, но L’Heure Bleue более плотный, насыщенный и кондитерский, а Apres l’Ondée имеет более цветочный характер, особенно в его нотах фиалки, и, возможно, более понятный и открытый. И Apres l’Ondée, и L’Heure Bleue часто воспринимаются как меланхоличные ароматы.
• Mitsouko (1919) : назван в честь героини романа La Bataille. Клод Фаррер, говорят, Мицуко возвещает конец Первой мировой войны. Из-за нехватки флаконов в конце войны он продавался во флаконе, идентичном флакону L’Heure Bleue, и иногда считается теплым аналогом этого аромата. В основе композиции — духи Coty Chypre 1917 года с добавлением нот персика и ириса. Поскольку аромат Coty давно снят с производства, Mitsouko сегодня считается Лукой Турином, известным парфюмерным критиком и обозревателем, эталонным ароматом в семействе ольфакторных шипровых
• Shalimar (1925) : Названный в честь сада в Лахоре, построенного Шахом Джаханом в память о своей жене, Шалимар является одним из самых знаменитые восточные ароматы, и был одним из первых духов, успешно включивших в свой состав большое количество ванилина. Аромат Shalimar плотно построен, с каскадом множества нот, включая бергамот, бобы тонка, ирис и ваниль. Это флагманский парфюм Дома Guerlain.
• Vol de Nuit (1933) : Сочинены как дань уважения полету и посвящены одноименному роману пилота Antoine de Saint-Exupéry и Air France, это зеленый, полу-восточный шипр с нотами ириса, гальбанума, нарцисса и дубового мха. Использование гальбанума в Vol de Nuit сделало его первым ароматом с ярко выраженными зелеными нотами.
• Chamade (1969) : назван в честь романа Франсуазы Саган, Chamade — это цветочно-восточный аромат с ярко выраженными верхними нотами гальбанума, в основе которого лежат ноты гиацинта, бутонов черной смородины и ванили. По-французски слово «Chamade» относится к особому быстрому барабану, который армии Наполеона использовали для подачи сигнала к отступлению. Упакованный во флакон, представляющий перевернутое сердце, пронзенное стрелой, аромат, как говорят, символизирует полную отдачу любви.
• Nahéma (1979): Этот цветочный восточный аромат был вдохновлен легендой о султане. у которого были дочери-близнецы, нежная и послушная Махане и пылкая и страстная Нахема. Основанный преимущественно на нотах розы, Nahéma был одним из первых ароматов, в которых использовались дамасценоны, набор недавно обнаруженных ароматических веществ с глубоким фруктово-розовым характером.
• Samsara (1989) : Созданный Жан-Полем Герленом, это пьянящий восточный аромат с основными нотами жасмина, иланг-иланга и сандалового дерева. Название является отсылкой к циклу рождения, жизни, смерти, возрождения или реинкарнации в индуизме и многих других религиях Южной Азии.

С момента своего основания в 1828 году Guerlain создал более 300 ароматов. К ним относятся:

Имя	Год
Eau de Cologne Impériale	1853
Jicky	1889
Eau de Cologne du Coq	1894
Mouchoir de Monsieur	1904
Voilette de Madame	1904
Parfum des Champs-Élysées	1904
Après l ‘Ondée	1906
Kadine	1911
L’Heure Bleue	1912
Mitsouko	1919
Eau de Fleurs de Cédrat	1920
Shalimar	1925
Liù	1929
Sous le Vent	1933
Vol de Nuit	1933
Vega	1936
Coque d’Or	1937
Ode	1955
Vetiver	1956
Chant d’Arômes	1962
Habit Rouge	1965
Chamade	1969
Eau de Guerlain	1974
Parure	1975
Nahéma	1979
Jardins de Bagatelle	1983
Дерби	1985
Samsara	1989
Héritage	1992
Champs-Élysées	1996
Aqua Allegoria Pamplelune	1999
Aqua Allegoria Herba Fresc a	1999
Mahora / Mayotte	2000
L’Instant de Guerlain	2003
Insolence	2006
Guerlain Homme	2008
Idylle	2010
La Petite Robe Noire	2012
L’Homme Idéal	2014
Mon Guerlain	2017
Météorites	2018

Ссылки

Дополнительная литература

• Stamelman, R: «Духи — радость, одержимость, скандал, грех. «. Риццоли. ISBN 978-0-8478-2832-6. Культурная история ароматов с 1750 года до наших дней.
• Collectif, Dictionnaire des parfums — 10e édition 1990–1991, Sermadiras, 1990, 304 стр.
• Элизабет де Фейдо, Le roman des Guerlain. Parfumeurs de Paris, Flammarion, 2017, 363 стр. (lire en ligne)
• Пьер-Ролан Сен-Дизье (сценарий), Ли-Ан (рисунок), Guerlain, Le prince des parfums, 1ère époque, Pierre-François-Pascal (1798/1864), bande dessinée, Glénat, 2018

Внешние ссылки

Викискладе есть медиафайлы, связанные с Guerlain.

• Официальным сайтом
• Корпоративная страница LVMH, владельца Guerlain