Как правильно пишется кристиан диор на английском языке

This article is about the fashion designer. For the company, see Dior.

Christian Dior
Christian Dior 1954.jpg

Dior in 1954
Born 21 January 1905

Granville, France
Died 24 October 1957 (aged 52)

Montecatini Terme, Tuscany, Italy
Resting place Cimetière de Callian, Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur, France[1]
Alma mater Sciences Po
Label Christian Dior
Parents
  • Maurice Dior (father)
  • Madeleine Martin (mother)
Relatives
  • Catherine Dior (sister)
  • Françoise Dior (niece)

Christian Ernest Dior (French: [kʁistjɑ̃ djɔʁ]; 21 January 1905 – 24 October 1957) was a French fashion designer, best known as the founder of one of the world’s top fashion houses, Christian Dior SE, which is now owned by parent company LVMH. His fashion houses are known all around the world, specifically «on five continents in only a decade» (Sauer[2]). He was the second child of a family of seven, born to Maurice Dior and Madeleine Martin, in the town of Granville.

Dior’s artistic skills led to his employment and design for various well-known fashion icons in attempts to preserve the fashion industry during World War II. Post-war, he founded and established the Dior fashion house, with his collection of the «New Look» revolutionising women’s dress and contributing to the reestablishment of Paris as the centre of the fashion world.

Throughout his lifetime, he won numerous awards for Best Costume Design. Upon his death in 1957, various contemporary icons paid tribute to his life and work.

Early life[edit]

The Christian Dior Home and Museum in Granville, France

Christian Dior was born in Granville, a seaside town on the coast of Normandy, France. He was the second of five children born to Maurice Dior, a wealthy fertilizer manufacturer (the family firm was Dior Frères), and his wife, formerly Madeleine Martin. He had four siblings: Raymond (father of Françoise Dior), Jacqueline, Bernard, and Catherine Dior.[3] When Christian was about five years old, the family moved to Paris, but still returned to the Normandy coast for summer holidays.

Dior’s family had hoped he would become a diplomat, but Dior was artistic and wished to be involved in art.[4] To make money, he sold his fashion sketches outside his house for about 10 cents each. In 1928, Dior left school and received money from his father to finance a small art gallery, where he and a friend sold art by the likes of Pablo Picasso. The gallery was closed three years later, following the deaths of Dior’s mother and brother, as well as financial trouble during the Great Depression that resulted in his father losing control of the family business.

From 1937, Dior was employed by the fashion designer Robert Piguet, who gave him the opportunity to design for three Piguet collections.[5][6] Dior would later say that «Robert Piguet taught me the virtues of simplicity through which true elegance must come.»[7][8] One of his original designs for Piguet, a day dress with a short, full skirt called «Cafe Anglais», was particularly well received.[5][6] Whilst at Piguet, Dior worked alongside Pierre Balmain, and was succeeded as house designer by Marc Bohan – who would, in 1960, become head of design for Christian Dior Paris.[6] Dior left Piguet when he was called up for military service.

In 1942, when Dior left the army, he joined the fashion house of Lucien Lelong, where he and Balmain were the primary designers. For the duration of World War II, Dior, as an employee of Lelong – who labored to preserve the French fashion industry during wartime for economic and artistic reasons — designed dresses for the wives of Nazi officers and French collaborators, as did other fashion houses that remained in business during the war, including Jean Patou, Jeanne Lanvin, and Nina Ricci.[9][10] His sister, Catherine (1917–2008), served as a member of the French Resistance, was captured by the Gestapo, and sent to the Ravensbrück concentration camp, where she was incarcerated until her liberation in May 1945.[11] In 1947, he named his debut fragrance, Miss Dior in tribute to his sister.

The Dior fashion house[edit]

In 1946, Marcel Boussac, a successful entrepreneur known as the richest man in France, invited Dior to design for Philippe et Gaston, a Paris fashion house launched in 1925.[12] Dior refused, wishing to make a fresh start under his own name rather than reviving an old brand.[13] On 8 December 1946, with Boussac’s backing, Dior founded his fashion house. The name of the line of his first collection, presented on 12 February 1947,[14] was Corolle (literally the botanical term corolla or circlet of flower petals in English). The phrase New Look was coined for it by Carmel Snow, the editor-in-chief of Harper’s Bazaar.[15][16]

Despite being called «New», it was clearly drawn from styles of the Edwardian era.[17][18] The New Look merely refined and crystallized trends in skirt shape and waistline that had been burgeoning in high fashion since the late 1930s.[19][20] Dior’s designs were more voluptuous than the boxy, fabric-conserving shapes of the recent World War II styles, influenced by the wartime rationing of fabric.[21]

Dior was a master at creating shapes and silhouettes. Dior was quoted as saying: «I have designed flower women.»[citation needed] His look employed fabrics lined predominantly with percale, boned, bustier-style bodices, hip padding, wasp-waisted corsets, and petticoats that made his dresses flare out from the waist, giving his models a very curvaceous form.[citation needed]

Initially, women protested because his designs covered up their legs, which they had been unused to because of the previous limitations on fabric. Some of the backlash to Dior’s designs was also due to the amount of fabric used in a single dress or suit. Gabrielle «Coco» Chanel said of the «New Look»: «Look how ridiculous these women are, wearing clothes by a man who doesn’t know women, never had one, and dreams of being one.»[citation needed] During one photo shoot in a Paris market, the models were attacked by female vendors over this profligacy, but opposition ceased as the wartime shortages ended.[citation needed]

The «New Look» revolutionized women’s dress and reestablished Paris as the centre of the fashion world after World War II,[22][23] as well as making Dior a virtual arbiter of fashion for much of the following decade.[24] Each season featuring a newly titled Dior «line», in the manner of 1947’s «Corolle» line, that would then be trumpeted in the fashion press: the Envol and Cyclone/Zigzag lines in 1948; the Trompe l’Oeil and Mid-Century lines in 1949; the Vertical and Oblique lines in 1950; the Naturelle/Princesse and Longue lines in 1951; the Sinueuse and Profilėe lines in 1952; the Tulipe and Vivante lines in 1953; the Muguet/Lily of the Valley line and H-Line in 1954; the A-Line and Y-Line in 1955; the Flèche/Arrow and Aimant/Magnet lines in 1956; and the Libre/Free and Fuseau/Spindle lines in 1957,[25][26] followed by successor Yves Saint Laurent’s Trapeze line in 1958.[27][28]

In 1955, the 19-year-old Yves Saint Laurent became Dior’s design assistant. Christian Dior later met with Yves Saint Laurent’s mother, Lucienne Mathieu-Saint Laurent, in 1957, to tell her that he had chosen Saint Laurent to succeed him at Dior. She indicated later that she had been confused by the remark, as Dior was only 52 at the time.[29]

Death[edit]

Christian Dior died of a sudden heart attack while on vacation in Montecatini, Italy, on 24 October 1957 in the late afternoon while playing a game of cards.[30][31] He was survived by Jacques Benita, a North African singer three decades his junior,[32][33] the last of a number of discreet male lovers.[33][34]

Awards and honors[edit]

Dior on a Romanian stamp (2005)

Dior was nominated for the 1955 Academy Award for Best Costume Design in black and white for the Terminal Station directed by Vittorio De Sica (1953). Dior was also nominated in 1967 for a BAFTA for Best British Costume (Colour) for the Arabesque directed by Stanley Donen (1966).[35] Nominated in 1986 for his contributions to the 1985 film, Bras de fer, he was up for Best Costume Design (Meilleurs costumes) during the 11th Cesar Awards.[36]

Cultural references[edit]

A novella by Paul Gallico, Mrs ‘Arris Goes to Paris (1958, UK title Flowers for Mrs Harris), tells the story of a London charwoman who falls in love with her employer’s couture wardrobe and goes to Paris to purchase a Dior ballgown. A perfume named Christian Dior is used in Haruki Murakami’s novel The Wind-Up Bird Chronicle as an influential symbol placed at critical plot points throughout. The English singer-songwriter Morrissey released a song titled «Christian Dior» as a B-side to his 2006 single «In the Future When All’s Well». Kanye West released a song titled «Christian Dior Denim Flow» in 2010. West mentioned the Dior brand in three other songs: «Devil in a New Dress», «Stronger», and «Barry Bonds».[37]

The late American rapper Pop Smoke released a song titled «Dior» in July 2019. Pop Smoke also mentioned the Dior brand in other songs, including «Enjoy Yourself»: «Shopping up in Saks Fifth with a cup of Actavis to get Christian Dior; Look, I be all up in the stores (Oh, oh).»[38]

In 2016, book publisher Assouline introduced an ongoing series devoted to each designer of the couture house of Dior. Published titles include Dior by Christian Dior,[39] Dior by YSL,[40] Dior by Marc Bohan,[41] and Dior by Gianfranco Ferre.[42]

See also[edit]

  • Château de La Colle Noire

References[edit]

  1. ^ Var: Côte d’Azur, Verdon, by Dominique Auzias, Jean-Paul Labourdette, Nouvelles éditions de l’Université, 1 January 2010, pg 150
  2. ^ «The History of the House of Dior». 20 November 2018.
  3. ^ Pochna, M-F. (1996). Christian Dior: The Man Who Made the World Look New p. 5, Arcade Publishing. ISBN 1-55970-340-7.
  4. ^ Pochna, Marie-France (1996). Christian Dior: The Man Who Made the World Look New (1st English language ed.). New York: Arcade Pub. p. 207. ISBN 1-55970-340-7.
  5. ^ a b Marly, Diana de (1990). Christian Dior. London: B.T. Batsford. p. 12. ISBN 978-0-7134-6453-5. Dior designed three collections while at Piguet’s, and the most famous dress he created then was the Cafe Anglais
  6. ^ a b c Pochna, Marie-France (1996). Christian Dior: The Man Who Made the World Look New. Translated by Savill, Joanna (1st English language ed.). New York: Arcade Pub. pp. 62, 72, 74, 80, 102. ISBN 978-1-55970-340-6. Robert Piguet.
  7. ^ Grainger, Nathalie (2010). Quintessentially Perfume. London: Quintessentially Pub. Ltd. p. 125. ISBN 978-0-9558270-6-8.
  8. ^ Picken, Mary Brooks; Dora Loues Miller (1956). Dressmakers of France: The Who, How, and why of the French Couture. Harper. p. 105.
  9. ^ Jayne Sheridan, Fashion, Media, Promotion: The New Black Magic (John Wiley & Sons, 2010), p. 44.
  10. ^ Yuniya Kawamura, The Japanese Revolution in Fashion (Berg Publishers, 2004), page 46. As quoted in the book, Lelong was a leading force in keeping the French fashion industry from being forcibly moved to Berlin, arguing, «You can impose anything upon us by force, but Paris couture cannot be uprooted, neither as a whole or in any part. Either it stays in Paris, or it does not exist. It is not within the power of any nation to steal fashion creativity, for not only does it function quite spontaneously, also it is the product of a tradition maintained by a large body of skilled men and women in a variety of crafts and trades.» Kawamura explains that the survival of the French fashion industry was critical to the survival of France, stating, «Export of a single dress by a leading couturier enabled the country to buy ten tons of coal, and a liter of perfume was worth two tons of petrol» (page 46).
  11. ^ Sereny, Gitta (2002). The Healing Wound: Experiences and Reflections, Germany, 1938–2001. New York: W. W. Norton & Company. pp. 15–16. ISBN 0-393-04428-9.
  12. ^ Palmer, Alexandra (Spring 2010). «Dior’s Scandalous New Look». ROM Magazine. Royal Ontario Museum. Retrieved 6 November 2015.
  13. ^ Pochna, Marie-France (1996). Christian Dior: The Man Who Made the World Look New. Translated by Savill, Joanna (1st English language ed.). New York: Arcade Pub. pp. 90–92. ISBN 978-1-55970-340-6.
  14. ^ Company History at Dior’s website Archived 7 November 2008 at the Wayback Machine
  15. ^ Morris, Bernadine (29 July 1976). «A Revolutionary Saint Laurent Showing». The New York Times: 65. Retrieved 16 March 2022. [T]he collection Christian Dior showed in 1947 … was Edwardian
  16. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). «1946-1956». Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. pp. 180–181. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. Dior’s New Look was still relying on old-fashioned underpinnings like boned corsetry … Fashion … reviv[ed] the mock-Edwardian style first presented in the late thirties. … [Dior’s] tighter waists, longer, fuller skirts and more pronounced hips were in fact the maximization of an old style
  17. ^ Morris, Bernadine (29 July 1976). «A Revolutionary Saint Laurent Showing». The New York Times: 65. Retrieved 16 March 2022. [T]he collection Christian Dior showed in 1947 … was Edwardian
  18. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). «1946-1956». Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. pp. 180–181. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. Dior’s New Look was still relying on old-fashioned underpinnings like boned corsetry … Fashion … reviv[ed] the mock-Edwardian style first presented in the late thirties. … [Dior’s] tighter waists, longer, fuller skirts and more pronounced hips were in fact the maximization of an old style
  19. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). «1947». Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 194. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. [T]he trend towards longer skirts, smaller waists and feminine lines had begun in the late thirties and was seen in America in the early forties; hence Dior was not the originator of this mode, but its rejuvenator and popularist.
  20. ^ Cunningham, Bill (1 March 1988). «Fashionating Rhythm». Details. New York, NY: Details Publishing Corp. VI (8): 121. ISSN 0740-4921. Each of the major fashion changes that mark a season is the result of a series of creative designers adding essential elements to the overall picture. The eventual credit for the genius is often given to the designer who articulated the look with commercial success, such as Dior achieved with his 1947 New Look, although it had been seen in small prototypes at Balenciaga in the early Forties and at other Paris houses just before the war.
  21. ^ Grant, L. (22 September 2007). «Light at the end of the tunnel». The Guardian, Life & Style. London. Retrieved 11 November 2013.
  22. ^ Morris, Bernadine (14 April 1981). «How Paris Kept Position in Fashion». The New York Times: B19. Retrieved 4 April 2022. Dior’s bombshell brought manufacturers as well as store buyers rushing back to the City of Light as they sought to interpret his inspirational designs for their own clients….Throughout the 1950’s, Paris was acclaimed as the source of fashion, and Dior’s success helped stave off the development of other independent style centers for at least a decade.
  23. ^ «Christian Dior – Fashionsizzle». fashionsizzle.com. 12 January 2014. Retrieved 2 November 2017.
  24. ^ Howell, Georgina (1978). «1948-1959». In Vogue: Sixty Years of Celebrities and Fashion from British Vogue. Harmondsworth, Middlesex, England: Penguin Books Ltd. p. 204. ISBN 0-14-004955-X. Women obeyed Paris because of Christian Dior.
  25. ^ Howell, Georgina (1978). «1947, 1948-1959». In Vogue: Sixty Years of Celebrities and Fashion from British Vogue. Harmondsworth, Middlesex, England: Penguin Books Ltd. pp. 198, 204, 221–245. ISBN 0-14-004955-X. page range covering mention of Dior line names
  26. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). «1946-1956». Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, The Penguin Group. pp. 194–248. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. page range covering mention of Dior line names
  27. ^ Howell, Georgina (1978). «1958». In Vogue: Sixty Years of Celebrities and Fashion from British Vogue. Harmondsworth, Middlesex, England: Penguin Books Ltd. p. 246. ISBN 0-14-004955-X.
  28. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). «1958». Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, The Penguin Group. pp. 251–252. ISBN 0-670-80172-0.
  29. ^ «Christian Dior». British Vogue. 5 April 2012. Retrieved 4 June 2020.
  30. ^ «Died. Christian Dior, 52». Time. 4 November 1957. Archived from the original on 12 October 2007. Retrieved 7 March 2008.
  31. ^ In French: Grunebaum, Karine (30 January 2013). ««J’ai vu mourir Christian Dior» par Francis Huster». parismatch.com. Archived from the original on 18 November 2016. Retrieved 18 November 2016.
  32. ^ Zotoff, Lucy (25 December 2015). «Revolutions in fashion: Christian Dior». Haute Couture News. Retrieved 14 October 2022.
  33. ^ a b Blanks, Tim (18 August 2002). «The Last Temptation of Christian». New York Times. Retrieved 14 October 2022.
  34. ^ Du Plessix Gray, Francine (27 October 1996). «Prophets of Seduction». New Yorker. Retrieved 14 October 2022.
  35. ^ «1967 Film British Costume Design – Colour | BAFTA Awards». Awards.bafta.org. Retrieved 12 February 2017.
  36. ^ «Awards – Académie des Arts et Techniques du Cinéma». Academie-cinema.org. Archived from the original on 18 October 2014. Retrieved 12 February 2017.
  37. ^ Kim, Soo-Young (18 June 2013). «The Complete History of Kanye West’s Brand References in Lyrics». Complex. Retrieved 7 June 2016.
  38. ^ Pop Smoke (Ft. KAROL G) – Enjoy Yourself, retrieved 24 January 2021
  39. ^ Saillard, Olivier (2016). Dior by Christian Dior. New York, USA: Assouline. p. 504.
  40. ^ Benaim, Laurence (2017). Dior by YSL. New York, USA: Assouline. p. 300.
  41. ^ Hanover, Jerome (2018). Dior by Marc Bohan. New York, USA: Assouline. p. 496.
  42. ^ Fury, Alexander (2019). Dior by Gianfranco Ferre. New York, USA: Assouline. p. 320.

Further reading[edit]

  • Charleston, Beth Duncuff (October 2004). «Christian Dior (1905–1957)». Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art. Based on original work by Harold Koda.
  • Dior, Christian (1957). Christian Dior and I. New York: Dutton.
  • Garcia-Moreau, Guillaume, Le château de La Colle Noire, un art de vivre en Provence, Dior, 2018. Read online
  • Martin, Richard; Koda, Harold (1996). Christian Dior. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art. ISBN 978-0-87099-822-5.

External links[edit]

  • Photos of Dior and Samples of New Look Fashion
  • «Interactive timeline of couture houses and couturier biographies». Victoria and Albert Museum. 29 July 2015.
  • Documentary film Christian Dior, The Man Behind The Myth
  • Christian Dior at Chicago History Museum Digital Collections Archived 15 January 2015 at the Wayback Machine
Источник
Christian Dior SE

Dior Logo 2022.svg
Christian Dior, 30 Avenue Montaigne, Paris 2016.jpg

Headquarters in Paris, France
Type Public (Societas Europaea)[1]

Traded as
  • Euronext Paris: CDI
  • Euronext 100 component
ISIN FR0000130403
Industry Luxury goods
Founded 16 December 1946; 76 years ago
Founder Christian Dior
Headquarters 30 Avenue Montaigne
Paris, France[2]

Number of locations

 210

Area served

 Worldwide

Key people

 Bernard Arnault (chairman)
Antoine Arnault (vice-chairman & CEO)[3]
Maria Grazia Chiuri (creative director)
Kim Jones (creative director)[4]
Products Clothing, cosmetics, fashion accessories, jewelry, perfumes, spirits, watches, wines
Services Department stores
Revenue Increase €53.67 billion (2019)[5]

Operating income

 Increase €11.43 billion (2019)[5]

Net income

 Increase €7.78 billion (2019)[5]
Total assets Increase €93.83 billion (2019)[5]
Total equity Decrease €35.71 billion (2019)[5]

Number of employees

 163,309 (2019)[5]
Divisions
  • Christian Dior Cosmetics
  • Dior Homme
  • Parfums Christian Dior
Subsidiaries
  • Christian Dior Couture[6]
  • LVMH (42.36%)
Website dior.com

Christian Dior SE (French: [kʁistjɑ̃ djɔʁ]),[1] commonly known as Dior (stylized DIOR), is a French luxury fashion house[2] controlled and chaired by French businessman Bernard Arnault, who also heads LVMH, the world’s largest luxury group. Dior itself holds 42.36% shares and 59.01% of voting rights within LVMH.[7][8]

The company was founded in 1946 by French fashion designer Christian Dior, who was originally from Normandy. This brand sells only shoes and clothing that can only be bought in Dior stores. Haute couture is under the Christian Dior Couture division. Pietro Beccari has been the CEO of Christian Dior Couture since 2018.[9]

History[edit]

Founding[edit]

The House of Dior was established on 16 December 1946[10][6] at 30 Avenue Montaigne in Paris. However, the current Dior corporation celebrates «1947» as the opening year.[6] Dior was financially backed by wealthy businessman Marcel Boussac.[6][11] Boussac had originally invited Dior to design for Philippe et Gaston, but Dior refused, wishing to make a fresh start under his own name rather than reviving an old brand.[12] The new couture house became a part of «a vertically integrated textile business» already operated by Boussac.[11] Its capital was at FFr 6 million and workforce at 80 employees.[11] The company was really a vanity project for Boussac and was a «majorly owned affiliate of Boussac Saint-Freres S.A. Nevertheless, Dior was allowed a then-unusual great part in his namesake label (legal leadership, a non-controlling stake in the firm, and one-third of pretax profits) despite Boussac’s reputation as a «control freak». Dior’s creativity also negotiated him a good salary.[11]

«New Look» [edit]

«Bar» suit, 1947, displayed in Moscow, 2011

On 12 February 1947, Christian Dior launched his first fashion collection for Spring–Summer 1947. The show of «90 models of his first collection on six mannequins» was presented in the salons of the company’s headquarters at 30 Avenue Montaigne.[6] Originally, the two lines were named «Corolle» and «Huit».[6] However, the new collection went down in fashion history as the «New Look» after the editor-in-chief of Harper’s Bazaar Carmel Snow exclaimed, «It’s such a new look!»[6][11] The New Look was a revolutionary era for women at the end of the 1940s.[13] When the collection was presented, the editor in chief also showed appreciation by saying; «It’s quite a revolution, dear Christian!»[13] The debut collection of Christian Dior is credited with having revived the fashion industry of France.[14] Along with that, the New Look brought back the spirit of haute couture in France as it was considered glamorous and young-looking.[15] «We were witness to a revolution in fashion and to a revolution in showing fashion as well.»[16]
The silhouette was characterized by a small, nipped-in waist and a full skirt falling below mid-calf length, which emphasized the bust and hips, as epitomized by the ‘Bar’ suit from the first collection.[17][18] The collection overall showcased more stereotypically feminine designs in contrast to the popular fashions of wartime, with full skirts, tight waists, and soft shoulders. Dior retained some of the masculine aspects as they continued to hold popularity through the early 1940s, but he also wanted to include more feminine style.[19]

The New Look became extremely popular, its full-skirted silhouette influencing other fashion designers well into the 1950s, and Dior gained a number of prominent clients from Hollywood, the United States, and the European aristocracy. As a result, Paris, which had fallen from its position as the capital of the fashion world after World War II, regained its preeminence.[20][21] The New Look was welcomed in western Europe as a refreshing antidote to the austerity of wartime and de-feminizing uniforms, and was embraced by stylish women such as Princess Margaret in the UK.[citation needed] According to Harold Koda, Dior credited Charles James with inspiring The New Look.[22] Dior’s designs from the «New Look» did not only affect the designers in the 1950s, but also more recent designers in the 2000s, including Thom Browne, Miuccia Prada, and Vivienne Westwood. Dior’s evening dresses from that time are still referred to by many designers, and they have been seen in different wedding themed catwalks with multiple layers of fabric building up below the small waist (Jojo, 2011). Examples include Vivienne Westwood’s Ready-to-Wear Fall/Winter 2011 and Alexander McQueen’s Ready to Wear Fall/Winter 2011 (Jojo, 2011).[citation needed]

Not everyone was pleased with the New Look, however. Some considered the amount of material to be wasteful, especially after years of cloth rationing.[23] Feminists in particular were outraged, feeling that these corseted designs were restrictive and regressive, and that they took away a woman’s independence.[24] There were several protest groups against the designs including, the League of Broke Husbands, made up of 30,000 men who were against the costs associated with the amount of fabric needed for such designs. Fellow designer Coco Chanel remarked, «Only a man who never was intimate with a woman could design something that uncomfortable.»[21] Despite such protests, the New Look was highly influential, continuing to inform the work of other designers and fashion well into the 21st century.[14] For the 60th anniversary of the New Look in 2007, John Galliano revisited it for his Spring-Summer collection for Dior.[25] Galliano used the wasp waist and rounded shoulders, modernised and updated with references to origami and other Japanese influences.[25] In 2012 Raf Simons revisited the New Look for his debut haute couture collection for Dior, wishing to update its ideas for the 21st century in a minimalist but also sensual and sexy manner.[14][26] Simons’s work for Dior retained the luxurious fabrics and silhouette, but encouraged self-respect for the woman’s body and liberation of expression.[26] The design process for this collection, which was produced in only eight weeks, is documented in Dior and I, presenting Simons’s use of technology and modernist re-interpretations.[27]

Dior[edit]

Available references contradict themselves whether Christian Dior Parfums was established in 1947 or 1948. The Dior corporation itself lists the founding of Christian Dior Parfums as 1947, with the launch of its first perfume, Miss Dior.[6] Dior revolutionized the perfumery industry with the launch of the highly popular Miss Dior parfum, which was named after Catherine Dior (Christian Dior’s sister).[6] Christian Dior Ltd owned 25%, manager of Coty perfumes held 35%, and Boussac owned 40% of the perfume business, headed by Serge Heftler Louiche.[6] Pierre Cardin was made head of the Dior workshop from 1947 until 1950. In 1948, a New York City Christian Dior Parfums branch was established—this could be the cause of establishment-date issue.[6] The modern Dior corporation also notes that «a luxury ready-to-wear house is established in New York at the corner of 5th Avenue and 57th Street, the first of its kind,» in 1948.[6] In 1949, the «Diorama» perfume is released and[6] by 1949, the New Look line alone made a profit FFr 12.7 million.[11]

Expansion, and death of Christian Dior[edit]

Expansion from France began by the end of 1949 with the opening of a Christian Dior boutique in New York City. By the end of the year, Dior fashions made up 75% of Paris’s fashion exports and 5% of France’s total export revenue.[11]

In 1949, Douglas Cox from Melbourne, Australia, travelled to Paris to meet with Christian Dior to discuss the possibility of having Dior pieces made for the Australian market. Christian Dior and Douglas Cox signed a contract for Dior to produce original designs and for Douglas Cox to create them in his Flinders Lane workshop.[28] A young Jill Walker, still in her mid teens, was one of the many workers for Douglas Cox, a couture label now in the headlines in Australian newspapers almost daily. Jill would go onto forming a couture legacy in Melbourne with popular labels such as Jinoel and Marti with husband Noel Kemelfield.[29] The agreement between Dior and Douglas Cox really put Australian dressmaking on the global stage, yet ultimately the 60 Dior models proved to be too avant-garde for the conservative Australian taste. Douglas Cox was unable to continue the contract beyond the single 1949 season making these Dior-Cox couture pieces some of the most rare collectors items in Australian couture.[30]

In 1950, Jacques Rouët, the general manager of Dior Ltd, devised a licensing program to place the now-renowned name of «Christian Dior» visibly on a variety of luxury goods.[11] It was placed first on neckties[6] and soon was applied to hosiery, furs, hats, gloves, handbags, jewelry, lingerie, and scarves.[11] Members of the French Chamber of Couture denounced it as a degrading action for the haute-couture image. Nevertheless, licensing became a profitable move and began a trend to continue «for decades to come»,[11] which all couture houses followed.[6]

Also in 1950, Christian Dior was the exclusive designer of Marlene Dietrich’s dresses in the Alfred Hitchcock film Stage Fright. In 1951, Dior released his first book, Je Suis Couturier (I am a Couturier) through publishers Editions du Conquistador. Despite the company’s strong European following, more than half of its revenue was generated in the United States by this time.[11] Christian Dior Models Limited was created in London in 1952.[6] An agreement was made between the Sydney label House of Youth for Christian Dior New York models.[6] Los Gobelinos in Santiago, Chile, made an agreement with Dior for Christian Dior Paris Haute Couture.[6] The first Dior shoe line was launched in 1953 with the aid of Roger Vivier. The company operated firmly established locations in Mexico, Cuba, Canada, and Italy by the end of 1953.[11] As popularity of Dior goods grew, so did counterfeiting.[11] This illegal business was supported by women who could not afford the luxury goods.

By the mid-1950s, the House of Dior operated a well-respected fashion empire.[11] The first Dior boutique was established in 1954 at 9 Counduit Street. In honour of Princess Margaret and the Duchess of Marlborough, a Dior fashion show was held at the Blenheim Palace in 1954 as well. Christian Dior launched more highly successful fashion lines between the years of 1954 and 1957.[11] However, none came as close to the profound effect of the New Look.[11] Dior opened the Grande Boutique on the corner between Avenue Montaigne and Rue François Ier in 1955.[6] The first Dior lipstick was also released in 1955.[6] 100,000 garments had been sold by the time of the company’s 10th anniversary in 1956.[11] Actress Ava Gardner had 14 dresses created for her in 1956 by Christian Dior for the Mark Robson film The Little Hut.

Christian Dior appeared on the cover of TIME dated 4 March 1957. The designer soon afterwards died from a third heart attack on 24 October 1957.[6][11] The captivating impact of Dior’s creative fashion genius earned him recognition as one of history’s greatest fashion figures.[11] Kevin Almond for Contemporary Fashion wrote that «by the time Dior died his name had become synonymous with taste and luxury.»[11]

Dior without Christian Dior: 1957 through the 1970s[edit]

The death of the head designer left the House of Dior in chaos, and general manager Jacques Rouët considered shutting down operation worldwide. This possibility was not received graciously by Dior licensees and the French fashion industry; the Maison Dior was too important to the financial stability of the industry to allow such an action. To bring the label back on its feet, Rouët promoted the 21-year-old Yves Saint-Laurent to Artistic Director the same year.[11] Laurent had joined the House’s family in 1955 after being picked out by the original designer himself for the position of the first ever and only Head Assistant.[6][11] Laurent initially proved to have been the most appropriate choice after the debut of his first collection for Dior (the mention of Dior from this moment on refers to the company) in 1958.[11] The clothes were as meticulously made and perfectly proportioned as Dior’s in the same exquisite fabrics, but their young designer made them softer, lighter and easier to wear. Saint Laurent was hailed as a national hero. Emboldened by his success, his designs became more daring, culminating in the 1960 Beat Look inspired by the existentialists in the Saint-Germain des Près cafés and jazz clubs. His 1960 bohemian look was harshly criticized, and even more in Women’s Wear Daily.[11] Marcel Boussac was furious, and in the spring, when Saint Laurent was called up to join the French army—which forced him to leave the House of Dior—the Dior management raised no objection. Saint-Laurent left after the completion of six Dior collections.[6]

Christian Dior Haute Couture suit designed by Marc Bohan, spring/summer 1973.
Adnan Ege Kutay Collection

Laurent was replaced at Dior by designer Marc Bohan in late 1960. Bohan instilled his conservative style on the collections. He was credited by Rebecca Arnold as the man who kept the Dior label «at the forefront of fashion while still producing wearable, elegant clothes,» and Women’s Wear Daily, not surprisingly, claimed that he «rescued the firm.»[11] Bohan’s designs were very well esteemed by prominent social figures. Actress Elizabeth Taylor ordered twelve Dior dresses from Bohan’s Spring-Summer 1961 collection featuring the «Slim Look». The Dior perfume «Diorling» was released in 1963 and the men’s fragrance «Eau Sauvage» was released in 1966.[6] Bohan’s assistant Philippe Guibourgé launches the first French ready-to-wear collection «Miss Dior» in 1967. This is not to be confused with the already existing New York Ready-to-Wear store established in 1948. Designed by Bohan, «Baby Dior» opens its first boutique in 1967 at 28 Avenue Montaigne. The Christian Dior Coordinated Knit line is released in 1968 and management of the Fashion Furs Department of Christian Dior is taken by Frédéric Castet.[6] This year as well, Dior Parfums was sold to Moët-Hennessy (which would itself become LVMH) due to Boussac’s ailing textile company (the still-owner of Dior).[6][11] This, however, had no effect on the House of Dior operations, and so the Christian Dior Cosmetics business was born in 1969 with the creation of an exclusive line.

Following this, Bohan launched the first Christian Dior Homme clothing line in 1970. A new Dior boutique at Parly II was decorated by Gae Aulenti and the «Diorella» perfume was released in 1972. Christian Dior Ready-to-Wear Fur Collection was created in France in 1973, and then manufactured under license in the United States, Canada, and Japan.[6] The first Dior watch «Black Moon» was released in 1975 in collaboration with licensee Benedom. Dior haute-couture graced the bodies of Princess Grace of Monaco, Nicaraguan First Lady Hope Portocarrero, Princess Alexandra of Yugoslavia, and Lady Pamela Hicks (Lord Mountbatten of Burma’s younger daughter) for the wedding of The Prince of Wales and Lady Diana Spencer. In 1978, the Boussac Group filed for bankruptcy and so its assets (including those of Christian Dior) were purchased by the Willot Group under the permission of the Paris Trade Court.[6] The perfume «Dioressence» was released in 1979.[6]

Arrival of businessman Arnault[edit]

A simple Dior Haute Couture evening gown designed by Marc Bohan, from the Spring 1983 collection

In 1980, Dior released the men’s fragrance «Jules».[6] After the Willot Group went into bankruptcy in 1981, Bernard Arnault and his investment group purchased it for «one symbolic franc» in December 1984.[6][11] The Dior perfume «Poison» was launched in 1985. That same year, Arnault became chairman, chief executive officer, and managing director of the company.[6] On assuming leadership, Arnault did away with the company’s mediocre textile operations, to focus on the Bon Marché department store and Christian Dior Couture. Operations for Christian Dior drastically changed for the better under Arnault. He repositioned it as the holding company Christian Dior S.A. of the Dior Couture fashion business.[11] On the 40th anniversary of Dior’s first collection, the Paris Fashion Museum dedicated an exhibition to Christian Dior.[6] In 1988, Arnault’s Christian Dior S.A.’s took a 32% equity stake into the share capital of Moët-Hennessy • Louis Vuitton through its subsidiary Jacques Rober, creating what would become one of the leading and most influential luxury goods companies in the world. Under this milestone merger, the operations of Christian Dior Couture and Christian Dior Parfums were once again united. Italian-born Gianfranco Ferré replaced Bohan as head designer in 1989.[11] The first such non-Frenchman, Ferré left behind traditional Dior associations of flirtation and romance, and introduced concepts and a style described as «refined, sober and strict.»[11] Ferré headed design for Haute Couture, Haute Fourrure, Women’s Ready-to-Wear, Ready-to-Wear Furs and Women’s Accessories collections. His first collection was awarded the Dé d’Or in 1989.[6] That year, a boutique was opened in Hawaii and the LVMH stake by Jacques Rober rose to 44%.[6]

Further Dior boutiques were opened in 1990 in upscale New York City, Los Angeles, and Tokyo shopping districts. The stake in LVMH rose again, to 46%.[6] Another collection of watches named «Bagheera» – inspired by the round design of the «Black Moon» watches – was also released in 1990. Having fired the company’s managing executive Beatrice Bongbault in December 1990, Arnault took up that position until September 1991, when he placed former Bon Marché president Phillipe Vindry at the post.[11] In 1991, Christian Dior was listed on the spot market and then on the Paris Stock Exchange’s monthly settlement market, and the perfume «Dune» was launched.[6] Vindry dropped ready-to-wear prices by 10%. Still, a wool suit from Dior would come with a price label of USD 1,500.[11] 1990 revenue for Dior was USD 129.3 million, with a net income of $22 million.[11] Dior was now reorganized into three categories: 1) women’s ready-to-wear, lingerie, and children’s wear 2) accessories and jewelry 3) menswear. Licensees and franchised boutiques were starting to be reduced, to increase the company’s control over brand product. Licensing was in fact reduced by nearly half because Arnault and Vindry opted «for quality and exclusivity over quantity and accessibility.»[11] Wholly company-owned boutiques now opened in Hong Kong, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Cannes, and Waikiki, adding to its core stores located in New York City, Hawaii, Paris and Geneva. This held a potential to increase direct sales and profit margins while maintaining high-profile locations.»[11] In 1992, Dior Homme was placed under the artistic direction of Patrick Lavoix, and the «Miss Dior» perfume was relaunched.[6] Francois Baufume succeeded Vindry in 1993 and continued to reduce licenses of the Dior name.[11]

Leather gloves by Christian Dior

The production of Dior Haute Couture was spun off into a subsidiary named Christian Dior Couture in 1995.[6] Also, the «La Parisienne» watch model was released – embodied in the watch «Parisian Chic». By that year, revenue for the label rose to USD 177 million, with a net income of USD 26.9 million.[11] Under the influence of Anna Wintour, editor and chief of Vogue, CEO Arnault appointed British designer John Galliano to replace Gianfranco Ferré in 1997 (Galliano on CBS News: «without Anna Wintour I would certainly not be at the house of Dior»).[6][31] This choice of a British designer, once again instead of a French one, is said to have «ruffled some French feathers». Arnault himself stated that he «would have preferred a Frenchman», but that «talent has no nationality».[11] He even compared Galliano to Christian Dior himself, noting that «Galliano has a creative talent very close to that of Christian Dior. He has the same extraordinary mixture of romanticism, feminism, and modernity that symbolised Monsieur Dior. In all of his creations – his suits, his dresses – one finds similarities to the Dior style.»[11] Galliano sparked further interest in Dior with somewhat controversial fashion shows, such as «Homeless Show» (models dressed in newspapers and paper bags) or «S&M Show».[11] Meanwhile, Dior licenses were being reduced further by new president and CEO Sidney Toledano.[11] On 15 October 1997, the Dior headquarters store on Avenue Montaigne was reopened –it had been closed and remodeled by Peter Marino – in a celebrity-studded event including Nicole Kidman, Demi Moore and Jacques Chirac. That year, Christian Dior Couture also took over all thirteen boutique franchises from Japan’s Kanebo.[6]

In May 1998, another Dior boutique was opened in Paris. This time the store opened its doors on the Left Bank, Place Saint-Germain-des-Prés. Also this year, Victoire de Castellane became lead designer of Dior Fine Jewellery and the first Dior Fine Jewellery boutique opened in New York City. Paris itself would witness the opening of the first Parisian Dior Fine Jewellery boutique the following year, at 28 Avenue Montaigne.[6] The perfume «J’adore» was released in 1999,[6] and on 5 October 1999, Galliano released the Dior Spring-Summer 2000 ready-to-wear fashion show, debuting the new Saddle bag. In the same year, Dior’s long watch partner Benedom joined the LVMH group. In 2000, Galliano’s leadership was extended to Ready to wear, accessories, advertising and communications. The first campaign under his leadership was photographed by Nick Knight and featured two women simulating intercourse.

While other brands in the late 1990s, notably Gucci,[32] had resorted to porn chic as a mean to draw attention, Dior ads had such an impact that porn chic became a trend in most fashion ads. Galliano ignited the escalation of porno chic advertisements, which culminated with Ungaro’s zoophilic ads,[33] shot by Mario Sorrenti, and Gucci’s ads, which featured a model with pubic hair shaped like the signature Gucci logo. As a matter of fact, it is considered that Galliano had revolutionized Dior more through his advertising campaigns than through his designs.[34][35]

On 17 July 2000, Dior Homme lead designer Patrick Lavoix was replaced by Hedi Slimane. Notable Dior releases that year were watches such as the distinctive «Malice», which features bracelets made of «CD» links, as well as the «Riva». Hedi left Dior Homme in 2007 and replaced by Kris Van Assche.

21st century[edit]

In 2001, the Dior Homme boutique on 30 Avenue Montaigne reopened with a new «contemporary masculine concept» instilled by its designer Hedi Slimane. Slimane used this concept in the creation of his first Dior Homme collection.[6] Soon, Dior Homme gained prominent male clientele including Brad Pitt and Mick Jagger.[11]

John Galliano then began to release his own Dior watches in 2001, beginning with the «Chris 47 Aluminum» line, marking a new era in Dior watch design. Next, the «Malice» and «Riva» watches were redesigned with precious stones to create the «Malice Sparkling» and «Riva Sparkling» spin-off collections. Inspired by the Spring-Summer 2002 Ready-to-Wear collection, Dior released the «Dior 66» watch, breaking many feminine traditional expectations in design.

The Dior flagship boutique in the upscale Ginza shopping district of Tokyo. First opened in 2004.

The men’s fragrance «Higher» was released in 2001, followed by the perfume «Addict» in 2002. The company then opened Milan’s first Dior Homme boutique on 20 February 2002. By 2002, 130 locations were in full operation.[11] On 3 June 2002, Slimane was presented with the «International Designer of the Year» award by the CFDA. Until 2002, Kanebo was the Christian Dior ready-to-wear license holder in Japan and, when the license expired, Christian Dior was able to profitable directly sell its ready-to-wear and accessories in its own boutiques.[36] The «Chris 47 Steel» watch was released in 2003 as a cousin of the original «Chris 47 Aluminum». Bernard Arnault, Hélène Mercier-Arnault, and Sidney Toledano witnessed the opening of the Dior flagship boutique in the Omotesandō district of Tokyo on 7 December 2003. The second Dior flagship store was opened in the upscale Ginza shopping district of Tokyo in 2004.[6] An exclusive Dior Homme boutique was opened also that year in Paris on Rue Royale, and it presented the entire Dior Homme collection. A second Dior Fine Jewelry boutique in Paris was opened at 8 Place Vendôme.[6] A Christian Dior boutique was opened in Moscow after the company took control of licensed operations of its Moscow agent.[6]

The designer of Dior Fine Jewelry Victoire de Castellane launched her own watch named «Le D de Dior» (French: «The D of Dior»). signifying the entrance of Dior watches into its collection of fine Jewelry. This watch was designed for women but made use of many design features which are typically thought of as masculine. Slimane next released a watch for the Dior Homme collection called «Chiffre Rouge.» This special watch included the signature look of Dior Homme: «Watch design and technology match each other inseparably, to create the perfect expression of Dior Homme’s artistic excellence and to increase the watchmaking legitimacy of Dior timepieces.» De Castellane then launched her second line of watches called «La Baby de Dior». The design for this line was meant to be more feminine with more of a «jewelry look.»

The «Miss Dior Chérie» perfume and the «Dior Homme» fragrance were released in 2005.[6] Galliano released his «Dior Christal» watches in which he combined steel and blue sapphires to create a «creative and innovative collection.» Christian Dior S.A. then celebrated the 13th anniversary of Dior Watches in 2005, and, in April of that year, its «Chiffre Rouge» collection was recognized by the World Watches and Jewelry Show in Basel, Switzerland. Also in the year, the fashion house also celebrated the 100th anniversary of the birthday of designer Christian Dior.[6] An exhibition, «Christian Dior: Man of the Century,» was held in the Dior Museum in Granville, Normandy.

In 2006, the Dior watch booth was dedicated to the Dior Canework. This pattern was made by designer Christian Dior and based on the Napoleon III chairs used in his fashion shows.

In 2007, Kris Van Assche was appointed as the new artistic director of Dior Homme. Van Assche presented his first collection later that year.[6] The 60th Anniversary of the founding of the Maison Dior was officially celebrated in 2007 as well.[6]

By February 2011, the House of Dior was in scandal after accusations of John Galliano making anti-Semitic remarks made international headlines: the company found itself in a «public relations nightmare.»[37] Galliano was fired in March and the scheduled presentation of his Fall-Winter 2011/2012 ready-to-wear collection went ahead without him, amid the controversy, on 4 March.[38] Before the start of the show, chief executive Sydney Toledano gave a sentimental speech on the values of Christian Dior and alluded to the family’s ties to The Holocaust.[39] The show closed with the staff of the atelier coming out to accept applause in the absence of their artistic director. (The previous January 2011 presentation of Spring-Summer 2011 haute-couture was the last appearance of Galliano on the Dior runway.) The company went on ahead and appointed Bill Gaytten as head designer interim in absence of artistic director.[40] Gaytten had worked under Galliano for Dior and for the John Galliano label. The first haute-couture collection (for the Fall-Winter 2011 season) under Gaytten’s management was presented in July and was received with mainly negative reviews.[41][42] Meanwhile, speculation remained for months as it was unknown who would be selected to replace Galliano. During its 13-month period of having no artistic director, Dior began undergoing subtle changes in its designs as the influence of the theatrical and flamboyant Galliano faded. The all-new resigned dior.com was launched in late 2011.

There is a subtext to this New New Look that goes beyond respect for the house’s esteemed founder. In one fell swoop, John Galliano has been all but removed from the Dior history books. By making a visual connection between his era and that of Christian Dior himself, Raf Simons has redrawn the line of succession. The unimpeachable codes of Dior are illustrated for a new generation; the bias-cut dresses and Kabuki styling of Galliano downgraded to a footnote.

—Critic surmising the meaning of Simons’ premier collection for Dior[43]

On 23 January 2012, Gaytten presented his second haute-couture collection (for the Spring-Summer 2012 season) for Dior and it was much better received than his first collection.[44]

Belgian designer Raf Simons was announced, on 11 April 2012, as the new artistic director of Christian Dior. Simons was known for his minimalist designs,[43] and this contrasted against the dramatic previous designs of Dior under Galliano. Furthermore, Simons was seen to have emerged as a «dark horse» amid the names of other designers who were considered high contenders.[37] To emphasize the appropriate choice of Simons as the right designer, the company ostentatiously made comparisons between Simons and the original designer Christian Dior.[45] Reportedly, Bernard Arnault and fellow executives at Dior and LVMH were keen to move Dior from the Galliano years.[37] Simons spent much time in the Dior archives[46] and familiarizing himself with haute-couture (as he had no previous background in that niche of fashion).[37] Simons was then scheduled to debut his designs in July. Meanwhile, Gaytten’s Spring-Summer 2012 haute-couture collection was presented as the first Dior haute-couture show ever to be held in China on 14 April in Shanghai;[47] and it was a mark of the company’s devotion to its presence in the Chinese market.

The show was the last presentation by Gaytten for Dior, and he remained as head designer for the John Galliano label.[48]

On 3 May, the Dior: Secret Garden – Versailles promotional film was launched.[49]
It was highly buzzed about throughout various industry and social media sources as it was a display of Dior through its transition. Simons presented his first ever collection for the company – the Fall-Winter 2012 haute-couture collection – on 2 July. A major highlight of the fall-winter 2012 haute-couture shows,[37][46][50] the collection was called by the company as «the new couture» and made reference to the start of a new Dior through the work of Simons «wiping the [haute couture] slate clean and starting again from scratch.»[51] The designer’s collection «made more references to Mr Dior than to the house of Dior»[43] with pieces harkening back to themes Dior’s post-WWII designs introduced to fashion.[37] Simons, who rarely makes himself available for interviews, gave an interview published by the company through its Dior Mag online feature.[52] While previous runway presentations under Galliano were held at the Musée Rodin, Simons’ show was held at a private residence, near the Arc de Triomphe, with the address only disclosed to select top-clients, celebrities, journalists, and other personnel exclusively invited in a discreet affair.[53] High-profile figures in attendance included designers Azzedine Alaïa,[37][46] Pierre Cardin,[37][54] Alber Elbaz (Lanvin designer),[37][43][46] Diane von Fürstenberg,[37][43][54] Marc Jacobs,[37][43][54] Christopher Kane,[37][43] Olivier Theyskens,[46] Riccardo Tisci,[37][54] Donatella Versace;[37][43][46][54] and Princess Charlene of Monaco,[37] actresses Marion Cotillard,[37] Mélanie Laurent,[37] Jennifer Lawrence,[37] Sharon Stone; film producer Harvey Weinstein;[46] and Dior chairman Arnault with his daughter.[37] Live satellite feed of the show was provided on DiorMag online and Twitter was also implemented for real time communication.[53] By then, it was also known that the company had purchased the Parisian embroidery firm Maison Vermont sometime earlier in 2012.[43]

In March 2015 it was announced that Rihanna was chosen as the official spokeswoman for Dior; this makes her the first black woman to take the spokeswoman position at Dior.[55] In 2015, Israeli model Sofia Mechetner was chosen to be the new face of Dior.[56]

In 2016, Maria Grazia Chiuri was named the women’s artistic director for Dior.[57]

In April 2016 a new Dior flagship boutique opened in San Francisco, with a party hosted by Jaime King.[58]

In 2017, Dior renovated and expanded its Madrid store. The brand celebrated the opening of the new boutique in a masked ball attended by a number of Spanish celebrities like Alejandro Gómez Palomo.[59]

In March 2018, Kim Jones was named the men’s artistic director for the house.[60] Under his management Dior has made several high profile streetwear collaborations. Jones first show for Dior featured American artist and designer Brian Donnelly aka KAWS. Thereafter followed collaborations with Raymond Pettibon, 1017 ALYX 9SM, Yoon Ahn, Hajime Sorayama, Daniel Arsham, Sacai and most recently Shawn Stussy, creator of the legendary streetwear brand Stüssy.[61]

In October 2019, Dior apologized to China for using a map of China that excluded Taiwan.[62]

On 11 March 2022, 30 Avenue Montaigne has once again opened its doors to the public.[63] The property was closed for two years for a major renovation led by architect Peter Marino.[63] Historically, 30 Avenue Montaigne is the place where Christian Dior showcased his first collection.[63]

Celebrity «ambassadors»[edit]

Dior has created strong partnerships with Hollywood celebrities and social media influencers, working closely with these individuals to reach more demographics and re-establish its identity as a new, modern brand, despite the fact that it has been around for a while.[64] This has allowed the brand to portray a more populist image and attract a wider audience.[65] The brand has worked with and dressed contemporary style icons like Jennifer Lawrence and Lupita Nyong’o, who may resonate with millennials.[66] Dior has effectively implemented social media into their marketing communication strategy, in which images and videos from campaigns are shared on both the official Dior profile, and on the celebrity ambassadors’ social media pages.

An example of this success is seen in the Secret Garden campaign featuring Rihanna.[67] In this campaign, Rihanna is seen dancing to a song from her album (Only If For a Night) through a hall of mirrors.[68] By being associated with Rihanna’s song, the company created a sense of association with her brand, which was beneficial to the company as she was ranked as the most marketable celebrity in 2016.[69] Despite the reach not being completely suitable to the Dior target audience, collaborating with the likes of Rihanna allows the company to engage with more of the market, as Rihanna’s social media following is four times larger than that of the fashion house.[65]

Below are some of the celebrity ambassadors who have fronted Dior campaigns:

  • Isabelle Adjani: Poison perfume (1985–1990s)[70]
  • Carla Bruni: Lady Dior handbag (1996)[71]
  • Milla Jovovich: Hypnotic Poison perfume (1999–2000)[72]
  • Charlize Theron: J’Adore Dior perfume (2004–present)
  • Sharon Stone: Capture skincare (2005–present)[73]
  • Monica Bellucci: Dior cosmetics (2006–2010),[74][75] Lady Dior handbag (2006–2007), Hypnotic Poison perfume (2009–2010)[76]
  • Eva Green: Midnight Poison (2007–2008)[77]
  • Marion Cotillard: Lady Dior handbag (2008–2017),[78][79] Miss Dior handbag (2011)[80]
  • Jude Law: Dior Homme fragrance (2008–2012)[81]
  • Natalie Portman: Miss Dior fragrance, Dior cosmetics (2010–present)[82][83]
  • Mélanie Laurent: Hypnotic Poison perfume (2011–present)[84]
  • Mila Kunis: Miss Dior handbag (2012)[85]
  • Jennifer Lawrence: Miss Dior handbag (2012–present),[86] Joy by Dior fragrance (2018–present)[87]
  • Robert Pattinson: Dior Homme fragrance (2013–present)[88]
  • Rihanna: Diorama bag, J’adore Dior perfume, Dior sunglasses (2015–present)[89][90]
  • Johnny Depp: Dior Sauvage fragrance (2015–present)[91]
  • Angelababy: DiorAmour collection (2017–present)[92]
  • Cara Delevingne: DIOR Addict Stellar Shine Lipstick. BE DIOR. BE PINK. (2019)[93][94]
  • Kim Jisoo: Dior Global Fashion Muse (2020–present); Dior Global Ambassador for Fashion and Beauty (2021–present)[95]
  • Yara Shahidi: Dior Global Brand Ambassador (2021–present); Face of Dior for Fashion and Cosmetics (2021–present)[96][97]
  • Oh Se-hun: Dior Global Ambassador (2021–present); Face of Dior for Fashion (2021–present)[98]
  • Kylian Mbappé brand ambassador of the men’s collection including Sauvage fragrance[99]

Fashion shows[edit]

Fashion show Date Models in order of appearance Soundtrack Theme Creative director
Spring 2020 Ready-to-Wear 20 January 2020 Maria Grazia Chiuri
Pre-Fall 2020 11 December 2019
Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear 30 September 2016
Resort 2017 31 May 2016 Serge Ruffieux & Lucie Meier
Fall 2016 Ready-to-Wear 4 March 2016
Spring 2003 Couture 19 January 2003 John Galliano
Spring 2001 Ready-to-Wear —
Fall 2000 Couture 28 July 2000
Fall 2000 Ready-to-Wear 28 February 2000
Spring 2000 Ready-to-Wear —
Fall 1999 Couture 19 July 1999
Spring 1998 Couture —

Financial data[edit]

Financial data in € millions[100]

Year 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017
Revenue 29.881 30.984 35.081 37.968 43.666
Net Income 3.926 3.883 6.165 4.164 5.753
Assets 55.555 61.161 60.030 62.904 72.762
Employees 2535 2780 3033 3100 3800

Criticism[edit]

2000s[edit]

In 2000, Galliano’s collection inspired by homeless people drew criticism, but also attention, to the house of Dior.[101]

2010s[edit]

In early 2011, scandal arose when John Galliano was accused of making anti-semitic comments after drinking in Paris. Footage was released of the designer under the influence of alcohol saying «I love Hitler» and «People like you would be dead today. Your mothers, your forefathers would be fucking gassed and dead» to a non-Jewish woman.[102] In France, it is against the law to make anti-semitic remarks, and is punishable by up to six months in prison.[102] On 1 March 2011, Christian Dior officially announced that it had fired Galliano amidst the controversy.[103]

Plagiarism and cultural appropriation controversies[edit]

2017[edit]

In 2017, Dior was accused of cultural appropriation by directly plagiarizing a Bihor coat, a traditional Romanian vest, by using the same colour and patterns in its pre-fall collection; Dior had presented it as their original designs without giving any credit to the people of Bihor nor crediting the Romanian people as source of inspiration.[104][105] As a result, Romanian people were outraged and to fight against this cultural appropriation, a compaign was launched by Romanian fashion magazine Beau Monde who then recruited native craftsmen and fashion designers from Bihor to create a new line of fashion.[104] The cover of the Beau Monde magazine read:[105]

Don’t let traditions go out of stock. Support the fashion from Bihor and buy authentic creations from Bihorcouture.com

— Beau Monde

Thus, the online platform named Bihor Couture was launched; Bihor Couture also publicly shamed Dior for «theft» and sold original artisan-made versions of the traditional Romanian vest.[104]

2022[edit]

In April 2022, Dior released a new midi-skirt in Seoul, Dior’s art director Maria Grazia Chiuri described the 2022 Fall collection design was inspired by school uniform (including pleated skirts), also in honour of Catherine Dior.[106] This new skirt was plain black wrap-around skirt which was made of two panels of fabric which was sewn to the waistband of the skirt; it featured four flat panels with no pleats (one at each side of each panel of fabric) and pleats; it was constructed in an overlapping fashion such that there was two overlapping flat surface at the back and front and side pleats when worn.[107][106] On its official website page, this skirt was described as «a hallmark Dior silhouette, the mid-length skirt is updated with a new elegant and modern variation […]».[108]

Three month later, this skirt was noticed by some Hanfu enthusiasts, who criticized it as being created by copying the mamianqun design.[109] They also indicated that this skirt have the exact same cut and construction as the mamianqun with only its length being the difference from the orthodox-style and historical mamianqun of the Ming dynasty (1368–1644 AD).[106][110] It was, however, noted by Chinese netizens that the 21st modified, modern version of the mamianqun, also included midi-mamianqun, had been designed in the past years by Chinese Hanfu designers.[111][110]

Dior decided to stop this sale in Mainland China to avoid controversy. On July 23, about 50 Chinese overseas students in Paris, France, made a protest in front of a Dior flagship store at the Champs-Élysée,[112][113] they used the slogan «Dior, Stop Cultural Appropriation» and «This is a traditional Chinese dress» written with a mixture of French and English;[114] they also called for other overseas students from the United Kingdom and the United States for relay, the Communist Youth League of China also expressed support for this protest.[115] There are also more than 10 Chinese democratic activists lifted banners writing «Skirt Rights Is Bigger Than Human Rights» etc. for anti-ptotest. And both sides started a conflict with each other. Chinese news media initially have no mention for anti-protest but focused on cultural embezzling accuse.[116] Chinese network also spread a theory that the democracy activists were composed by Taiwanese.[117]

Some French news media commented this was largely due to Dior does not describe its origin for sale with transparency, most criticize views argued that Dior did not respect to Chinese traditions.[118] According to the Journal du Luxe, a French news media, the adoption of the mamianqun cut and construction design by Dior was not the main issue of the debate and critics but rather on the absence of transparency surrounding the origins of the inspirations behind the skirt design.[118] Some Chinese netizens also criticized Dior on Weibo with comments, such as «Was Dior inspired by Taobao?»[119] while another Instagram user commented on the official Dior account:[118]

«Les références culturelles à notre pays [Chine] sont plus que bienvenues mais cela ne signifie pas pour autant que vous pouvez détourner notre culture et nier le fait que cette jupe est chinoise !»
[transl. »Taking cultural references from our country [i.e. China] is more than welcomed; however, this does not meaning that you can appropriate our culture and deny the fact that this skirt is Chinese !»].

— Instagram user, in Journal du Luxe, Dior : une polémique entre appropriation et transparence culturelle, published on July 21st 2022

Dior was accused of cultural appropriation for a second time in July 2022 for due to its usage of pattern print which looks like the huaniaotu (Chinese: 花鸟图; lit. ‘bird-and-flower painting’) into its 2022 autumn and winter ready-to-wear collection having introduced it as being Dior’s signature motif Jardin d’Hiver, which was inspired by Christian Dior’s wall murals;[120] the huaniaotu is a traditional Chinese painting theme which belong to the Chinese scholar-artist style in Chinese painting and originated in the Tang dynasty.[121]

Ownership and shareholdings[edit]

At the end of 2010, the only declared major shareholder in Christian Dior S.A. was Groupe Arnault SAS, the family holding company of Bernard Arnault. The group’s control amounted to 69.96% of Dior’s stock and 82.86% of its voting rights.[122] The remaining shares are considered free float.[122]

Christian Dior S.A. held 42.36% of the shares of LVMH and 59.01% of its voting rights at the end of 2010. Arnault held an additional 5.28% of shares and 4.65% of votes directly.[7]

Creative directors[edit]

  • Christian Dior – 1946–1957
  • Yves Saint Laurent – 1957–1960
  • Marc Bohan – 1960–1989
  • Gianfranco Ferré – 1989–1997
  • John Galliano – 1997–2011
  • Bill Gaytten – 2011–2012
  • Raf Simons – 2012–2015
  • Serge Ruffieux & Lucie Meier 2015–2016
  • Maria Grazia Chiuri (women’s) – 2016–present
  • Hedi Slimane (men’s) – 2000–2007
  • Kris Van Assche (men’s) – 2007–2018
  • Kim Jones (men’s) – 2018–present

Retail locations[edit]

The company operates a total of 210 locations as of September 2010[citation needed]:

  • Asia: 109
  • Africa: 1 (Casablanca, Morocco)
  • Caribbean: 1 (San Juan, Puerto Rico)
  • Europe: 45
  • Central America (Panama): 1
  • Middle East: 8
  • North America (Canada, Mexico, and the United States): 48
  • Oceania: 6
  • South America (Brazil, Argentina): 4

See also[edit]

References[edit]

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Further reading[edit]

  • Jackson, Lesley. The New Look: Design in the Fifties. London: Thames & Hudson, 1991. ISBN 0-500-27644-7.

External links[edit]

  • Official website
  • Dior – brand and company profile at Fashion Model Directory
  • Christian Dior at Chicago History Museum Digital Collections Archived 15 January 2015 at the Wayback Machine
  • «Interactive timeline of couture houses and couturier biographies». Victoria and Albert Museum. 29 July 2015.
  • Christian Dior, exhibition catalog fully online as PDF from The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Источник
Christian Dior SE

Dior Logo 2022.svg
Christian Dior, 30 Avenue Montaigne, Paris 2016.jpg

Headquarters in Paris, France
Type Public (Societas Europaea)[1]

Traded as
  • Euronext Paris: CDI
  • Euronext 100 component
ISIN FR0000130403
Industry Luxury goods
Founded 16 December 1946; 76 years ago
Founder Christian Dior
Headquarters 30 Avenue Montaigne
Paris, France[2]

Number of locations

 210

Area served

 Worldwide

Key people

 Bernard Arnault (chairman)
Antoine Arnault (vice-chairman & CEO)[3]
Maria Grazia Chiuri (creative director)
Kim Jones (creative director)[4]
Products Clothing, cosmetics, fashion accessories, jewelry, perfumes, spirits, watches, wines
Services Department stores
Revenue Increase €53.67 billion (2019)[5]

Operating income

 Increase €11.43 billion (2019)[5]

Net income

 Increase €7.78 billion (2019)[5]
Total assets Increase €93.83 billion (2019)[5]
Total equity Decrease €35.71 billion (2019)[5]

Number of employees

 163,309 (2019)[5]
Divisions
  • Christian Dior Cosmetics
  • Dior Homme
  • Parfums Christian Dior
Subsidiaries
  • Christian Dior Couture[6]
  • LVMH (42.36%)
Website dior.com

Christian Dior SE (French: [kʁistjɑ̃ djɔʁ]),[1] commonly known as Dior (stylized DIOR), is a French luxury fashion house[2] controlled and chaired by French businessman Bernard Arnault, who also heads LVMH, the world’s largest luxury group. Dior itself holds 42.36% shares and 59.01% of voting rights within LVMH.[7][8]

The company was founded in 1946 by French fashion designer Christian Dior, who was originally from Normandy. This brand sells only shoes and clothing that can only be bought in Dior stores. Haute couture is under the Christian Dior Couture division. Pietro Beccari has been the CEO of Christian Dior Couture since 2018.[9]

History[edit]

Founding[edit]

The House of Dior was established on 16 December 1946[10][6] at 30 Avenue Montaigne in Paris. However, the current Dior corporation celebrates «1947» as the opening year.[6] Dior was financially backed by wealthy businessman Marcel Boussac.[6][11] Boussac had originally invited Dior to design for Philippe et Gaston, but Dior refused, wishing to make a fresh start under his own name rather than reviving an old brand.[12] The new couture house became a part of «a vertically integrated textile business» already operated by Boussac.[11] Its capital was at FFr 6 million and workforce at 80 employees.[11] The company was really a vanity project for Boussac and was a «majorly owned affiliate of Boussac Saint-Freres S.A. Nevertheless, Dior was allowed a then-unusual great part in his namesake label (legal leadership, a non-controlling stake in the firm, and one-third of pretax profits) despite Boussac’s reputation as a «control freak». Dior’s creativity also negotiated him a good salary.[11]

«New Look» [edit]

«Bar» suit, 1947, displayed in Moscow, 2011

On 12 February 1947, Christian Dior launched his first fashion collection for Spring–Summer 1947. The show of «90 models of his first collection on six mannequins» was presented in the salons of the company’s headquarters at 30 Avenue Montaigne.[6] Originally, the two lines were named «Corolle» and «Huit».[6] However, the new collection went down in fashion history as the «New Look» after the editor-in-chief of Harper’s Bazaar Carmel Snow exclaimed, «It’s such a new look!»[6][11] The New Look was a revolutionary era for women at the end of the 1940s.[13] When the collection was presented, the editor in chief also showed appreciation by saying; «It’s quite a revolution, dear Christian!»[13] The debut collection of Christian Dior is credited with having revived the fashion industry of France.[14] Along with that, the New Look brought back the spirit of haute couture in France as it was considered glamorous and young-looking.[15] «We were witness to a revolution in fashion and to a revolution in showing fashion as well.»[16]
The silhouette was characterized by a small, nipped-in waist and a full skirt falling below mid-calf length, which emphasized the bust and hips, as epitomized by the ‘Bar’ suit from the first collection.[17][18] The collection overall showcased more stereotypically feminine designs in contrast to the popular fashions of wartime, with full skirts, tight waists, and soft shoulders. Dior retained some of the masculine aspects as they continued to hold popularity through the early 1940s, but he also wanted to include more feminine style.[19]

The New Look became extremely popular, its full-skirted silhouette influencing other fashion designers well into the 1950s, and Dior gained a number of prominent clients from Hollywood, the United States, and the European aristocracy. As a result, Paris, which had fallen from its position as the capital of the fashion world after World War II, regained its preeminence.[20][21] The New Look was welcomed in western Europe as a refreshing antidote to the austerity of wartime and de-feminizing uniforms, and was embraced by stylish women such as Princess Margaret in the UK.[citation needed] According to Harold Koda, Dior credited Charles James with inspiring The New Look.[22] Dior’s designs from the «New Look» did not only affect the designers in the 1950s, but also more recent designers in the 2000s, including Thom Browne, Miuccia Prada, and Vivienne Westwood. Dior’s evening dresses from that time are still referred to by many designers, and they have been seen in different wedding themed catwalks with multiple layers of fabric building up below the small waist (Jojo, 2011). Examples include Vivienne Westwood’s Ready-to-Wear Fall/Winter 2011 and Alexander McQueen’s Ready to Wear Fall/Winter 2011 (Jojo, 2011).[citation needed]

Not everyone was pleased with the New Look, however. Some considered the amount of material to be wasteful, especially after years of cloth rationing.[23] Feminists in particular were outraged, feeling that these corseted designs were restrictive and regressive, and that they took away a woman’s independence.[24] There were several protest groups against the designs including, the League of Broke Husbands, made up of 30,000 men who were against the costs associated with the amount of fabric needed for such designs. Fellow designer Coco Chanel remarked, «Only a man who never was intimate with a woman could design something that uncomfortable.»[21] Despite such protests, the New Look was highly influential, continuing to inform the work of other designers and fashion well into the 21st century.[14] For the 60th anniversary of the New Look in 2007, John Galliano revisited it for his Spring-Summer collection for Dior.[25] Galliano used the wasp waist and rounded shoulders, modernised and updated with references to origami and other Japanese influences.[25] In 2012 Raf Simons revisited the New Look for his debut haute couture collection for Dior, wishing to update its ideas for the 21st century in a minimalist but also sensual and sexy manner.[14][26] Simons’s work for Dior retained the luxurious fabrics and silhouette, but encouraged self-respect for the woman’s body and liberation of expression.[26] The design process for this collection, which was produced in only eight weeks, is documented in Dior and I, presenting Simons’s use of technology and modernist re-interpretations.[27]

Dior[edit]

Available references contradict themselves whether Christian Dior Parfums was established in 1947 or 1948. The Dior corporation itself lists the founding of Christian Dior Parfums as 1947, with the launch of its first perfume, Miss Dior.[6] Dior revolutionized the perfumery industry with the launch of the highly popular Miss Dior parfum, which was named after Catherine Dior (Christian Dior’s sister).[6] Christian Dior Ltd owned 25%, manager of Coty perfumes held 35%, and Boussac owned 40% of the perfume business, headed by Serge Heftler Louiche.[6] Pierre Cardin was made head of the Dior workshop from 1947 until 1950. In 1948, a New York City Christian Dior Parfums branch was established—this could be the cause of establishment-date issue.[6] The modern Dior corporation also notes that «a luxury ready-to-wear house is established in New York at the corner of 5th Avenue and 57th Street, the first of its kind,» in 1948.[6] In 1949, the «Diorama» perfume is released and[6] by 1949, the New Look line alone made a profit FFr 12.7 million.[11]

Expansion, and death of Christian Dior[edit]

Expansion from France began by the end of 1949 with the opening of a Christian Dior boutique in New York City. By the end of the year, Dior fashions made up 75% of Paris’s fashion exports and 5% of France’s total export revenue.[11]

In 1949, Douglas Cox from Melbourne, Australia, travelled to Paris to meet with Christian Dior to discuss the possibility of having Dior pieces made for the Australian market. Christian Dior and Douglas Cox signed a contract for Dior to produce original designs and for Douglas Cox to create them in his Flinders Lane workshop.[28] A young Jill Walker, still in her mid teens, was one of the many workers for Douglas Cox, a couture label now in the headlines in Australian newspapers almost daily. Jill would go onto forming a couture legacy in Melbourne with popular labels such as Jinoel and Marti with husband Noel Kemelfield.[29] The agreement between Dior and Douglas Cox really put Australian dressmaking on the global stage, yet ultimately the 60 Dior models proved to be too avant-garde for the conservative Australian taste. Douglas Cox was unable to continue the contract beyond the single 1949 season making these Dior-Cox couture pieces some of the most rare collectors items in Australian couture.[30]

In 1950, Jacques Rouët, the general manager of Dior Ltd, devised a licensing program to place the now-renowned name of «Christian Dior» visibly on a variety of luxury goods.[11] It was placed first on neckties[6] and soon was applied to hosiery, furs, hats, gloves, handbags, jewelry, lingerie, and scarves.[11] Members of the French Chamber of Couture denounced it as a degrading action for the haute-couture image. Nevertheless, licensing became a profitable move and began a trend to continue «for decades to come»,[11] which all couture houses followed.[6]

Also in 1950, Christian Dior was the exclusive designer of Marlene Dietrich’s dresses in the Alfred Hitchcock film Stage Fright. In 1951, Dior released his first book, Je Suis Couturier (I am a Couturier) through publishers Editions du Conquistador. Despite the company’s strong European following, more than half of its revenue was generated in the United States by this time.[11] Christian Dior Models Limited was created in London in 1952.[6] An agreement was made between the Sydney label House of Youth for Christian Dior New York models.[6] Los Gobelinos in Santiago, Chile, made an agreement with Dior for Christian Dior Paris Haute Couture.[6] The first Dior shoe line was launched in 1953 with the aid of Roger Vivier. The company operated firmly established locations in Mexico, Cuba, Canada, and Italy by the end of 1953.[11] As popularity of Dior goods grew, so did counterfeiting.[11] This illegal business was supported by women who could not afford the luxury goods.

By the mid-1950s, the House of Dior operated a well-respected fashion empire.[11] The first Dior boutique was established in 1954 at 9 Counduit Street. In honour of Princess Margaret and the Duchess of Marlborough, a Dior fashion show was held at the Blenheim Palace in 1954 as well. Christian Dior launched more highly successful fashion lines between the years of 1954 and 1957.[11] However, none came as close to the profound effect of the New Look.[11] Dior opened the Grande Boutique on the corner between Avenue Montaigne and Rue François Ier in 1955.[6] The first Dior lipstick was also released in 1955.[6] 100,000 garments had been sold by the time of the company’s 10th anniversary in 1956.[11] Actress Ava Gardner had 14 dresses created for her in 1956 by Christian Dior for the Mark Robson film The Little Hut.

Christian Dior appeared on the cover of TIME dated 4 March 1957. The designer soon afterwards died from a third heart attack on 24 October 1957.[6][11] The captivating impact of Dior’s creative fashion genius earned him recognition as one of history’s greatest fashion figures.[11] Kevin Almond for Contemporary Fashion wrote that «by the time Dior died his name had become synonymous with taste and luxury.»[11]

Dior without Christian Dior: 1957 through the 1970s[edit]

The death of the head designer left the House of Dior in chaos, and general manager Jacques Rouët considered shutting down operation worldwide. This possibility was not received graciously by Dior licensees and the French fashion industry; the Maison Dior was too important to the financial stability of the industry to allow such an action. To bring the label back on its feet, Rouët promoted the 21-year-old Yves Saint-Laurent to Artistic Director the same year.[11] Laurent had joined the House’s family in 1955 after being picked out by the original designer himself for the position of the first ever and only Head Assistant.[6][11] Laurent initially proved to have been the most appropriate choice after the debut of his first collection for Dior (the mention of Dior from this moment on refers to the company) in 1958.[11] The clothes were as meticulously made and perfectly proportioned as Dior’s in the same exquisite fabrics, but their young designer made them softer, lighter and easier to wear. Saint Laurent was hailed as a national hero. Emboldened by his success, his designs became more daring, culminating in the 1960 Beat Look inspired by the existentialists in the Saint-Germain des Près cafés and jazz clubs. His 1960 bohemian look was harshly criticized, and even more in Women’s Wear Daily.[11] Marcel Boussac was furious, and in the spring, when Saint Laurent was called up to join the French army—which forced him to leave the House of Dior—the Dior management raised no objection. Saint-Laurent left after the completion of six Dior collections.[6]

Christian Dior Haute Couture suit designed by Marc Bohan, spring/summer 1973.
Adnan Ege Kutay Collection

Laurent was replaced at Dior by designer Marc Bohan in late 1960. Bohan instilled his conservative style on the collections. He was credited by Rebecca Arnold as the man who kept the Dior label «at the forefront of fashion while still producing wearable, elegant clothes,» and Women’s Wear Daily, not surprisingly, claimed that he «rescued the firm.»[11] Bohan’s designs were very well esteemed by prominent social figures. Actress Elizabeth Taylor ordered twelve Dior dresses from Bohan’s Spring-Summer 1961 collection featuring the «Slim Look». The Dior perfume «Diorling» was released in 1963 and the men’s fragrance «Eau Sauvage» was released in 1966.[6] Bohan’s assistant Philippe Guibourgé launches the first French ready-to-wear collection «Miss Dior» in 1967. This is not to be confused with the already existing New York Ready-to-Wear store established in 1948. Designed by Bohan, «Baby Dior» opens its first boutique in 1967 at 28 Avenue Montaigne. The Christian Dior Coordinated Knit line is released in 1968 and management of the Fashion Furs Department of Christian Dior is taken by Frédéric Castet.[6] This year as well, Dior Parfums was sold to Moët-Hennessy (which would itself become LVMH) due to Boussac’s ailing textile company (the still-owner of Dior).[6][11] This, however, had no effect on the House of Dior operations, and so the Christian Dior Cosmetics business was born in 1969 with the creation of an exclusive line.

Following this, Bohan launched the first Christian Dior Homme clothing line in 1970. A new Dior boutique at Parly II was decorated by Gae Aulenti and the «Diorella» perfume was released in 1972. Christian Dior Ready-to-Wear Fur Collection was created in France in 1973, and then manufactured under license in the United States, Canada, and Japan.[6] The first Dior watch «Black Moon» was released in 1975 in collaboration with licensee Benedom. Dior haute-couture graced the bodies of Princess Grace of Monaco, Nicaraguan First Lady Hope Portocarrero, Princess Alexandra of Yugoslavia, and Lady Pamela Hicks (Lord Mountbatten of Burma’s younger daughter) for the wedding of The Prince of Wales and Lady Diana Spencer. In 1978, the Boussac Group filed for bankruptcy and so its assets (including those of Christian Dior) were purchased by the Willot Group under the permission of the Paris Trade Court.[6] The perfume «Dioressence» was released in 1979.[6]

Arrival of businessman Arnault[edit]

A simple Dior Haute Couture evening gown designed by Marc Bohan, from the Spring 1983 collection

In 1980, Dior released the men’s fragrance «Jules».[6] After the Willot Group went into bankruptcy in 1981, Bernard Arnault and his investment group purchased it for «one symbolic franc» in December 1984.[6][11] The Dior perfume «Poison» was launched in 1985. That same year, Arnault became chairman, chief executive officer, and managing director of the company.[6] On assuming leadership, Arnault did away with the company’s mediocre textile operations, to focus on the Bon Marché department store and Christian Dior Couture. Operations for Christian Dior drastically changed for the better under Arnault. He repositioned it as the holding company Christian Dior S.A. of the Dior Couture fashion business.[11] On the 40th anniversary of Dior’s first collection, the Paris Fashion Museum dedicated an exhibition to Christian Dior.[6] In 1988, Arnault’s Christian Dior S.A.’s took a 32% equity stake into the share capital of Moët-Hennessy • Louis Vuitton through its subsidiary Jacques Rober, creating what would become one of the leading and most influential luxury goods companies in the world. Under this milestone merger, the operations of Christian Dior Couture and Christian Dior Parfums were once again united. Italian-born Gianfranco Ferré replaced Bohan as head designer in 1989.[11] The first such non-Frenchman, Ferré left behind traditional Dior associations of flirtation and romance, and introduced concepts and a style described as «refined, sober and strict.»[11] Ferré headed design for Haute Couture, Haute Fourrure, Women’s Ready-to-Wear, Ready-to-Wear Furs and Women’s Accessories collections. His first collection was awarded the Dé d’Or in 1989.[6] That year, a boutique was opened in Hawaii and the LVMH stake by Jacques Rober rose to 44%.[6]

Further Dior boutiques were opened in 1990 in upscale New York City, Los Angeles, and Tokyo shopping districts. The stake in LVMH rose again, to 46%.[6] Another collection of watches named «Bagheera» – inspired by the round design of the «Black Moon» watches – was also released in 1990. Having fired the company’s managing executive Beatrice Bongbault in December 1990, Arnault took up that position until September 1991, when he placed former Bon Marché president Phillipe Vindry at the post.[11] In 1991, Christian Dior was listed on the spot market and then on the Paris Stock Exchange’s monthly settlement market, and the perfume «Dune» was launched.[6] Vindry dropped ready-to-wear prices by 10%. Still, a wool suit from Dior would come with a price label of USD 1,500.[11] 1990 revenue for Dior was USD 129.3 million, with a net income of $22 million.[11] Dior was now reorganized into three categories: 1) women’s ready-to-wear, lingerie, and children’s wear 2) accessories and jewelry 3) menswear. Licensees and franchised boutiques were starting to be reduced, to increase the company’s control over brand product. Licensing was in fact reduced by nearly half because Arnault and Vindry opted «for quality and exclusivity over quantity and accessibility.»[11] Wholly company-owned boutiques now opened in Hong Kong, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Cannes, and Waikiki, adding to its core stores located in New York City, Hawaii, Paris and Geneva. This held a potential to increase direct sales and profit margins while maintaining high-profile locations.»[11] In 1992, Dior Homme was placed under the artistic direction of Patrick Lavoix, and the «Miss Dior» perfume was relaunched.[6] Francois Baufume succeeded Vindry in 1993 and continued to reduce licenses of the Dior name.[11]

Leather gloves by Christian Dior

The production of Dior Haute Couture was spun off into a subsidiary named Christian Dior Couture in 1995.[6] Also, the «La Parisienne» watch model was released – embodied in the watch «Parisian Chic». By that year, revenue for the label rose to USD 177 million, with a net income of USD 26.9 million.[11] Under the influence of Anna Wintour, editor and chief of Vogue, CEO Arnault appointed British designer John Galliano to replace Gianfranco Ferré in 1997 (Galliano on CBS News: «without Anna Wintour I would certainly not be at the house of Dior»).[6][31] This choice of a British designer, once again instead of a French one, is said to have «ruffled some French feathers». Arnault himself stated that he «would have preferred a Frenchman», but that «talent has no nationality».[11] He even compared Galliano to Christian Dior himself, noting that «Galliano has a creative talent very close to that of Christian Dior. He has the same extraordinary mixture of romanticism, feminism, and modernity that symbolised Monsieur Dior. In all of his creations – his suits, his dresses – one finds similarities to the Dior style.»[11] Galliano sparked further interest in Dior with somewhat controversial fashion shows, such as «Homeless Show» (models dressed in newspapers and paper bags) or «S&M Show».[11] Meanwhile, Dior licenses were being reduced further by new president and CEO Sidney Toledano.[11] On 15 October 1997, the Dior headquarters store on Avenue Montaigne was reopened –it had been closed and remodeled by Peter Marino – in a celebrity-studded event including Nicole Kidman, Demi Moore and Jacques Chirac. That year, Christian Dior Couture also took over all thirteen boutique franchises from Japan’s Kanebo.[6]

In May 1998, another Dior boutique was opened in Paris. This time the store opened its doors on the Left Bank, Place Saint-Germain-des-Prés. Also this year, Victoire de Castellane became lead designer of Dior Fine Jewellery and the first Dior Fine Jewellery boutique opened in New York City. Paris itself would witness the opening of the first Parisian Dior Fine Jewellery boutique the following year, at 28 Avenue Montaigne.[6] The perfume «J’adore» was released in 1999,[6] and on 5 October 1999, Galliano released the Dior Spring-Summer 2000 ready-to-wear fashion show, debuting the new Saddle bag. In the same year, Dior’s long watch partner Benedom joined the LVMH group. In 2000, Galliano’s leadership was extended to Ready to wear, accessories, advertising and communications. The first campaign under his leadership was photographed by Nick Knight and featured two women simulating intercourse.

While other brands in the late 1990s, notably Gucci,[32] had resorted to porn chic as a mean to draw attention, Dior ads had such an impact that porn chic became a trend in most fashion ads. Galliano ignited the escalation of porno chic advertisements, which culminated with Ungaro’s zoophilic ads,[33] shot by Mario Sorrenti, and Gucci’s ads, which featured a model with pubic hair shaped like the signature Gucci logo. As a matter of fact, it is considered that Galliano had revolutionized Dior more through his advertising campaigns than through his designs.[34][35]

On 17 July 2000, Dior Homme lead designer Patrick Lavoix was replaced by Hedi Slimane. Notable Dior releases that year were watches such as the distinctive «Malice», which features bracelets made of «CD» links, as well as the «Riva». Hedi left Dior Homme in 2007 and replaced by Kris Van Assche.

21st century[edit]

In 2001, the Dior Homme boutique on 30 Avenue Montaigne reopened with a new «contemporary masculine concept» instilled by its designer Hedi Slimane. Slimane used this concept in the creation of his first Dior Homme collection.[6] Soon, Dior Homme gained prominent male clientele including Brad Pitt and Mick Jagger.[11]

John Galliano then began to release his own Dior watches in 2001, beginning with the «Chris 47 Aluminum» line, marking a new era in Dior watch design. Next, the «Malice» and «Riva» watches were redesigned with precious stones to create the «Malice Sparkling» and «Riva Sparkling» spin-off collections. Inspired by the Spring-Summer 2002 Ready-to-Wear collection, Dior released the «Dior 66» watch, breaking many feminine traditional expectations in design.

The Dior flagship boutique in the upscale Ginza shopping district of Tokyo. First opened in 2004.

The men’s fragrance «Higher» was released in 2001, followed by the perfume «Addict» in 2002. The company then opened Milan’s first Dior Homme boutique on 20 February 2002. By 2002, 130 locations were in full operation.[11] On 3 June 2002, Slimane was presented with the «International Designer of the Year» award by the CFDA. Until 2002, Kanebo was the Christian Dior ready-to-wear license holder in Japan and, when the license expired, Christian Dior was able to profitable directly sell its ready-to-wear and accessories in its own boutiques.[36] The «Chris 47 Steel» watch was released in 2003 as a cousin of the original «Chris 47 Aluminum». Bernard Arnault, Hélène Mercier-Arnault, and Sidney Toledano witnessed the opening of the Dior flagship boutique in the Omotesandō district of Tokyo on 7 December 2003. The second Dior flagship store was opened in the upscale Ginza shopping district of Tokyo in 2004.[6] An exclusive Dior Homme boutique was opened also that year in Paris on Rue Royale, and it presented the entire Dior Homme collection. A second Dior Fine Jewelry boutique in Paris was opened at 8 Place Vendôme.[6] A Christian Dior boutique was opened in Moscow after the company took control of licensed operations of its Moscow agent.[6]

The designer of Dior Fine Jewelry Victoire de Castellane launched her own watch named «Le D de Dior» (French: «The D of Dior»). signifying the entrance of Dior watches into its collection of fine Jewelry. This watch was designed for women but made use of many design features which are typically thought of as masculine. Slimane next released a watch for the Dior Homme collection called «Chiffre Rouge.» This special watch included the signature look of Dior Homme: «Watch design and technology match each other inseparably, to create the perfect expression of Dior Homme’s artistic excellence and to increase the watchmaking legitimacy of Dior timepieces.» De Castellane then launched her second line of watches called «La Baby de Dior». The design for this line was meant to be more feminine with more of a «jewelry look.»

The «Miss Dior Chérie» perfume and the «Dior Homme» fragrance were released in 2005.[6] Galliano released his «Dior Christal» watches in which he combined steel and blue sapphires to create a «creative and innovative collection.» Christian Dior S.A. then celebrated the 13th anniversary of Dior Watches in 2005, and, in April of that year, its «Chiffre Rouge» collection was recognized by the World Watches and Jewelry Show in Basel, Switzerland. Also in the year, the fashion house also celebrated the 100th anniversary of the birthday of designer Christian Dior.[6] An exhibition, «Christian Dior: Man of the Century,» was held in the Dior Museum in Granville, Normandy.

In 2006, the Dior watch booth was dedicated to the Dior Canework. This pattern was made by designer Christian Dior and based on the Napoleon III chairs used in his fashion shows.

In 2007, Kris Van Assche was appointed as the new artistic director of Dior Homme. Van Assche presented his first collection later that year.[6] The 60th Anniversary of the founding of the Maison Dior was officially celebrated in 2007 as well.[6]

By February 2011, the House of Dior was in scandal after accusations of John Galliano making anti-Semitic remarks made international headlines: the company found itself in a «public relations nightmare.»[37] Galliano was fired in March and the scheduled presentation of his Fall-Winter 2011/2012 ready-to-wear collection went ahead without him, amid the controversy, on 4 March.[38] Before the start of the show, chief executive Sydney Toledano gave a sentimental speech on the values of Christian Dior and alluded to the family’s ties to The Holocaust.[39] The show closed with the staff of the atelier coming out to accept applause in the absence of their artistic director. (The previous January 2011 presentation of Spring-Summer 2011 haute-couture was the last appearance of Galliano on the Dior runway.) The company went on ahead and appointed Bill Gaytten as head designer interim in absence of artistic director.[40] Gaytten had worked under Galliano for Dior and for the John Galliano label. The first haute-couture collection (for the Fall-Winter 2011 season) under Gaytten’s management was presented in July and was received with mainly negative reviews.[41][42] Meanwhile, speculation remained for months as it was unknown who would be selected to replace Galliano. During its 13-month period of having no artistic director, Dior began undergoing subtle changes in its designs as the influence of the theatrical and flamboyant Galliano faded. The all-new resigned dior.com was launched in late 2011.

There is a subtext to this New New Look that goes beyond respect for the house’s esteemed founder. In one fell swoop, John Galliano has been all but removed from the Dior history books. By making a visual connection between his era and that of Christian Dior himself, Raf Simons has redrawn the line of succession. The unimpeachable codes of Dior are illustrated for a new generation; the bias-cut dresses and Kabuki styling of Galliano downgraded to a footnote.

—Critic surmising the meaning of Simons’ premier collection for Dior[43]

On 23 January 2012, Gaytten presented his second haute-couture collection (for the Spring-Summer 2012 season) for Dior and it was much better received than his first collection.[44]

Belgian designer Raf Simons was announced, on 11 April 2012, as the new artistic director of Christian Dior. Simons was known for his minimalist designs,[43] and this contrasted against the dramatic previous designs of Dior under Galliano. Furthermore, Simons was seen to have emerged as a «dark horse» amid the names of other designers who were considered high contenders.[37] To emphasize the appropriate choice of Simons as the right designer, the company ostentatiously made comparisons between Simons and the original designer Christian Dior.[45] Reportedly, Bernard Arnault and fellow executives at Dior and LVMH were keen to move Dior from the Galliano years.[37] Simons spent much time in the Dior archives[46] and familiarizing himself with haute-couture (as he had no previous background in that niche of fashion).[37] Simons was then scheduled to debut his designs in July. Meanwhile, Gaytten’s Spring-Summer 2012 haute-couture collection was presented as the first Dior haute-couture show ever to be held in China on 14 April in Shanghai;[47] and it was a mark of the company’s devotion to its presence in the Chinese market.

The show was the last presentation by Gaytten for Dior, and he remained as head designer for the John Galliano label.[48]

On 3 May, the Dior: Secret Garden – Versailles promotional film was launched.[49]
It was highly buzzed about throughout various industry and social media sources as it was a display of Dior through its transition. Simons presented his first ever collection for the company – the Fall-Winter 2012 haute-couture collection – on 2 July. A major highlight of the fall-winter 2012 haute-couture shows,[37][46][50] the collection was called by the company as «the new couture» and made reference to the start of a new Dior through the work of Simons «wiping the [haute couture] slate clean and starting again from scratch.»[51] The designer’s collection «made more references to Mr Dior than to the house of Dior»[43] with pieces harkening back to themes Dior’s post-WWII designs introduced to fashion.[37] Simons, who rarely makes himself available for interviews, gave an interview published by the company through its Dior Mag online feature.[52] While previous runway presentations under Galliano were held at the Musée Rodin, Simons’ show was held at a private residence, near the Arc de Triomphe, with the address only disclosed to select top-clients, celebrities, journalists, and other personnel exclusively invited in a discreet affair.[53] High-profile figures in attendance included designers Azzedine Alaïa,[37][46] Pierre Cardin,[37][54] Alber Elbaz (Lanvin designer),[37][43][46] Diane von Fürstenberg,[37][43][54] Marc Jacobs,[37][43][54] Christopher Kane,[37][43] Olivier Theyskens,[46] Riccardo Tisci,[37][54] Donatella Versace;[37][43][46][54] and Princess Charlene of Monaco,[37] actresses Marion Cotillard,[37] Mélanie Laurent,[37] Jennifer Lawrence,[37] Sharon Stone; film producer Harvey Weinstein;[46] and Dior chairman Arnault with his daughter.[37] Live satellite feed of the show was provided on DiorMag online and Twitter was also implemented for real time communication.[53] By then, it was also known that the company had purchased the Parisian embroidery firm Maison Vermont sometime earlier in 2012.[43]

In March 2015 it was announced that Rihanna was chosen as the official spokeswoman for Dior; this makes her the first black woman to take the spokeswoman position at Dior.[55] In 2015, Israeli model Sofia Mechetner was chosen to be the new face of Dior.[56]

In 2016, Maria Grazia Chiuri was named the women’s artistic director for Dior.[57]

In April 2016 a new Dior flagship boutique opened in San Francisco, with a party hosted by Jaime King.[58]

In 2017, Dior renovated and expanded its Madrid store. The brand celebrated the opening of the new boutique in a masked ball attended by a number of Spanish celebrities like Alejandro Gómez Palomo.[59]

In March 2018, Kim Jones was named the men’s artistic director for the house.[60] Under his management Dior has made several high profile streetwear collaborations. Jones first show for Dior featured American artist and designer Brian Donnelly aka KAWS. Thereafter followed collaborations with Raymond Pettibon, 1017 ALYX 9SM, Yoon Ahn, Hajime Sorayama, Daniel Arsham, Sacai and most recently Shawn Stussy, creator of the legendary streetwear brand Stüssy.[61]

In October 2019, Dior apologized to China for using a map of China that excluded Taiwan.[62]

On 11 March 2022, 30 Avenue Montaigne has once again opened its doors to the public.[63] The property was closed for two years for a major renovation led by architect Peter Marino.[63] Historically, 30 Avenue Montaigne is the place where Christian Dior showcased his first collection.[63]

Celebrity «ambassadors»[edit]

Dior has created strong partnerships with Hollywood celebrities and social media influencers, working closely with these individuals to reach more demographics and re-establish its identity as a new, modern brand, despite the fact that it has been around for a while.[64] This has allowed the brand to portray a more populist image and attract a wider audience.[65] The brand has worked with and dressed contemporary style icons like Jennifer Lawrence and Lupita Nyong’o, who may resonate with millennials.[66] Dior has effectively implemented social media into their marketing communication strategy, in which images and videos from campaigns are shared on both the official Dior profile, and on the celebrity ambassadors’ social media pages.

An example of this success is seen in the Secret Garden campaign featuring Rihanna.[67] In this campaign, Rihanna is seen dancing to a song from her album (Only If For a Night) through a hall of mirrors.[68] By being associated with Rihanna’s song, the company created a sense of association with her brand, which was beneficial to the company as she was ranked as the most marketable celebrity in 2016.[69] Despite the reach not being completely suitable to the Dior target audience, collaborating with the likes of Rihanna allows the company to engage with more of the market, as Rihanna’s social media following is four times larger than that of the fashion house.[65]

Below are some of the celebrity ambassadors who have fronted Dior campaigns:

  • Isabelle Adjani: Poison perfume (1985–1990s)[70]
  • Carla Bruni: Lady Dior handbag (1996)[71]
  • Milla Jovovich: Hypnotic Poison perfume (1999–2000)[72]
  • Charlize Theron: J’Adore Dior perfume (2004–present)
  • Sharon Stone: Capture skincare (2005–present)[73]
  • Monica Bellucci: Dior cosmetics (2006–2010),[74][75] Lady Dior handbag (2006–2007), Hypnotic Poison perfume (2009–2010)[76]
  • Eva Green: Midnight Poison (2007–2008)[77]
  • Marion Cotillard: Lady Dior handbag (2008–2017),[78][79] Miss Dior handbag (2011)[80]
  • Jude Law: Dior Homme fragrance (2008–2012)[81]
  • Natalie Portman: Miss Dior fragrance, Dior cosmetics (2010–present)[82][83]
  • Mélanie Laurent: Hypnotic Poison perfume (2011–present)[84]
  • Mila Kunis: Miss Dior handbag (2012)[85]
  • Jennifer Lawrence: Miss Dior handbag (2012–present),[86] Joy by Dior fragrance (2018–present)[87]
  • Robert Pattinson: Dior Homme fragrance (2013–present)[88]
  • Rihanna: Diorama bag, J’adore Dior perfume, Dior sunglasses (2015–present)[89][90]
  • Johnny Depp: Dior Sauvage fragrance (2015–present)[91]
  • Angelababy: DiorAmour collection (2017–present)[92]
  • Cara Delevingne: DIOR Addict Stellar Shine Lipstick. BE DIOR. BE PINK. (2019)[93][94]
  • Kim Jisoo: Dior Global Fashion Muse (2020–present); Dior Global Ambassador for Fashion and Beauty (2021–present)[95]
  • Yara Shahidi: Dior Global Brand Ambassador (2021–present); Face of Dior for Fashion and Cosmetics (2021–present)[96][97]
  • Oh Se-hun: Dior Global Ambassador (2021–present); Face of Dior for Fashion (2021–present)[98]
  • Kylian Mbappé brand ambassador of the men’s collection including Sauvage fragrance[99]

Fashion shows[edit]

Fashion show Date Models in order of appearance Soundtrack Theme Creative director
Spring 2020 Ready-to-Wear 20 January 2020 Maria Grazia Chiuri
Pre-Fall 2020 11 December 2019
Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear 30 September 2016
Resort 2017 31 May 2016 Serge Ruffieux & Lucie Meier
Fall 2016 Ready-to-Wear 4 March 2016
Spring 2003 Couture 19 January 2003 John Galliano
Spring 2001 Ready-to-Wear —
Fall 2000 Couture 28 July 2000
Fall 2000 Ready-to-Wear 28 February 2000
Spring 2000 Ready-to-Wear —
Fall 1999 Couture 19 July 1999
Spring 1998 Couture —

Financial data[edit]

Financial data in € millions[100]

Year 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017
Revenue 29.881 30.984 35.081 37.968 43.666
Net Income 3.926 3.883 6.165 4.164 5.753
Assets 55.555 61.161 60.030 62.904 72.762
Employees 2535 2780 3033 3100 3800

Criticism[edit]

2000s[edit]

In 2000, Galliano’s collection inspired by homeless people drew criticism, but also attention, to the house of Dior.[101]

2010s[edit]

In early 2011, scandal arose when John Galliano was accused of making anti-semitic comments after drinking in Paris. Footage was released of the designer under the influence of alcohol saying «I love Hitler» and «People like you would be dead today. Your mothers, your forefathers would be fucking gassed and dead» to a non-Jewish woman.[102] In France, it is against the law to make anti-semitic remarks, and is punishable by up to six months in prison.[102] On 1 March 2011, Christian Dior officially announced that it had fired Galliano amidst the controversy.[103]

Plagiarism and cultural appropriation controversies[edit]

2017[edit]

In 2017, Dior was accused of cultural appropriation by directly plagiarizing a Bihor coat, a traditional Romanian vest, by using the same colour and patterns in its pre-fall collection; Dior had presented it as their original designs without giving any credit to the people of Bihor nor crediting the Romanian people as source of inspiration.[104][105] As a result, Romanian people were outraged and to fight against this cultural appropriation, a compaign was launched by Romanian fashion magazine Beau Monde who then recruited native craftsmen and fashion designers from Bihor to create a new line of fashion.[104] The cover of the Beau Monde magazine read:[105]

Don’t let traditions go out of stock. Support the fashion from Bihor and buy authentic creations from Bihorcouture.com

— Beau Monde

Thus, the online platform named Bihor Couture was launched; Bihor Couture also publicly shamed Dior for «theft» and sold original artisan-made versions of the traditional Romanian vest.[104]

2022[edit]

In April 2022, Dior released a new midi-skirt in Seoul, Dior’s art director Maria Grazia Chiuri described the 2022 Fall collection design was inspired by school uniform (including pleated skirts), also in honour of Catherine Dior.[106] This new skirt was plain black wrap-around skirt which was made of two panels of fabric which was sewn to the waistband of the skirt; it featured four flat panels with no pleats (one at each side of each panel of fabric) and pleats; it was constructed in an overlapping fashion such that there was two overlapping flat surface at the back and front and side pleats when worn.[107][106] On its official website page, this skirt was described as «a hallmark Dior silhouette, the mid-length skirt is updated with a new elegant and modern variation […]».[108]

Three month later, this skirt was noticed by some Hanfu enthusiasts, who criticized it as being created by copying the mamianqun design.[109] They also indicated that this skirt have the exact same cut and construction as the mamianqun with only its length being the difference from the orthodox-style and historical mamianqun of the Ming dynasty (1368–1644 AD).[106][110] It was, however, noted by Chinese netizens that the 21st modified, modern version of the mamianqun, also included midi-mamianqun, had been designed in the past years by Chinese Hanfu designers.[111][110]

Dior decided to stop this sale in Mainland China to avoid controversy. On July 23, about 50 Chinese overseas students in Paris, France, made a protest in front of a Dior flagship store at the Champs-Élysée,[112][113] they used the slogan «Dior, Stop Cultural Appropriation» and «This is a traditional Chinese dress» written with a mixture of French and English;[114] they also called for other overseas students from the United Kingdom and the United States for relay, the Communist Youth League of China also expressed support for this protest.[115] There are also more than 10 Chinese democratic activists lifted banners writing «Skirt Rights Is Bigger Than Human Rights» etc. for anti-ptotest. And both sides started a conflict with each other. Chinese news media initially have no mention for anti-protest but focused on cultural embezzling accuse.[116] Chinese network also spread a theory that the democracy activists were composed by Taiwanese.[117]

Some French news media commented this was largely due to Dior does not describe its origin for sale with transparency, most criticize views argued that Dior did not respect to Chinese traditions.[118] According to the Journal du Luxe, a French news media, the adoption of the mamianqun cut and construction design by Dior was not the main issue of the debate and critics but rather on the absence of transparency surrounding the origins of the inspirations behind the skirt design.[118] Some Chinese netizens also criticized Dior on Weibo with comments, such as «Was Dior inspired by Taobao?»[119] while another Instagram user commented on the official Dior account:[118]

«Les références culturelles à notre pays [Chine] sont plus que bienvenues mais cela ne signifie pas pour autant que vous pouvez détourner notre culture et nier le fait que cette jupe est chinoise !»
[transl. »Taking cultural references from our country [i.e. China] is more than welcomed; however, this does not meaning that you can appropriate our culture and deny the fact that this skirt is Chinese !»].

— Instagram user, in Journal du Luxe, Dior : une polémique entre appropriation et transparence culturelle, published on July 21st 2022

Dior was accused of cultural appropriation for a second time in July 2022 for due to its usage of pattern print which looks like the huaniaotu (Chinese: 花鸟图; lit. ‘bird-and-flower painting’) into its 2022 autumn and winter ready-to-wear collection having introduced it as being Dior’s signature motif Jardin d’Hiver, which was inspired by Christian Dior’s wall murals;[120] the huaniaotu is a traditional Chinese painting theme which belong to the Chinese scholar-artist style in Chinese painting and originated in the Tang dynasty.[121]

Ownership and shareholdings[edit]

At the end of 2010, the only declared major shareholder in Christian Dior S.A. was Groupe Arnault SAS, the family holding company of Bernard Arnault. The group’s control amounted to 69.96% of Dior’s stock and 82.86% of its voting rights.[122] The remaining shares are considered free float.[122]

Christian Dior S.A. held 42.36% of the shares of LVMH and 59.01% of its voting rights at the end of 2010. Arnault held an additional 5.28% of shares and 4.65% of votes directly.[7]

Creative directors[edit]

  • Christian Dior – 1946–1957
  • Yves Saint Laurent – 1957–1960
  • Marc Bohan – 1960–1989
  • Gianfranco Ferré – 1989–1997
  • John Galliano – 1997–2011
  • Bill Gaytten – 2011–2012
  • Raf Simons – 2012–2015
  • Serge Ruffieux & Lucie Meier 2015–2016
  • Maria Grazia Chiuri (women’s) – 2016–present
  • Hedi Slimane (men’s) – 2000–2007
  • Kris Van Assche (men’s) – 2007–2018
  • Kim Jones (men’s) – 2018–present

Retail locations[edit]

The company operates a total of 210 locations as of September 2010[citation needed]:

  • Asia: 109
  • Africa: 1 (Casablanca, Morocco)
  • Caribbean: 1 (San Juan, Puerto Rico)
  • Europe: 45
  • Central America (Panama): 1
  • Middle East: 8
  • North America (Canada, Mexico, and the United States): 48
  • Oceania: 6
  • South America (Brazil, Argentina): 4

See also[edit]

References[edit]

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  109. ^ ««迪奥抄袭»引热议，网友：公开抄袭中国马面裙». Changjiang Cloud (in Chinese (China)). 16 July 2022.
  110. ^ a b Yuanyuan, Zhao (19 July 2022). «Dior accused of appropriating Chinese culture with $3,800 skirt». SupChina. Retrieved 3 August 2022.
  111. ^ Koetse, Manya. «Mamianqun Gate: Dior Accused of Cultural Appropriation for Copying Design of Traditional Chinese Skirt». Retrieved 3 August 2022.
  112. ^ «留法中国学生抗议迪奥»文化挪用»«. Deutsch Welle (in Chinese (China)). 24 July 2022.
  113. ^ 曾婷瑄 (23 July 2022). «巴黎中國留學生抗議Dior抄襲 反示威者：裙子比人權重要？». CNA (in Chinese (Taiwan)). Paris.
  114. ^ Oscar Holland. «Dior accused of ‘culturally appropriating’ centuries-old Chinese skirt». CNN. Retrieved 3 August 2022.
  115. ^ Shamuratov, J; Alimbaev, M (30 May 2022). «The significance of technology in teaching l2». Ренессанс в парадигме новаций образования и технологий в XXI веке (1): 214–216. doi:10.47689/innovations-in-edu-vol-iss1-pp214-216. ISSN 2277-3010. S2CID 249361979.
  116. ^ «중국인 유학생이 파리 ‘디올’ 매장 앞에서 시위하는 이유는?». 서울신문 (in Korean). 25 July 2022.
  117. ^ 汉良 (24 July 2022). «巴黎中国留学生抗议迪奥抄袭 反示威者讽刺：裙子比人权重要？». See Hua Daily News (in Chinese).
  118. ^ a b c «Dior : une polémique entre appropriation et transparence culturelle». journalduluxe.fr (in French). 21 July 2022.
  119. ^ «$3,800 Dior Skirt Accused of Appropriating Chinese Culture». www.vice.com. Retrieved 3 August 2022.
  120. ^ Looi, Sylvia (4 August 2022). «In less than a month, French fashion brand Dior accused of cultural appropriation again». Malay Mail. Retrieved 4 August 2022.
  121. ^ «Flower-and-Bird Paintings». en.chinaculture.org. Retrieved 4 August 2022.
  122. ^ a b «Annual Report 2010» (PDF). Christian Dior. Archived from the original (PDF) on 3 October 2011. Retrieved 29 May 2011. Shareholdings p. 33; employees p. 57; financials pp. 100–102.

Further reading[edit]

  • Jackson, Lesley. The New Look: Design in the Fifties. London: Thames & Hudson, 1991. ISBN 0-500-27644-7.

External links[edit]

  • Official website
  • Dior – brand and company profile at Fashion Model Directory
  • Christian Dior at Chicago History Museum Digital Collections Archived 15 January 2015 at the Wayback Machine
  • «Interactive timeline of couture houses and couturier biographies». Victoria and Albert Museum. 29 July 2015.
  • Christian Dior, exhibition catalog fully online as PDF from The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Источник

Кристиан Диор (фр. Christian Dior, 1905—1957) — французский дизайнер — модельер одежды, основатель фирмы Christian Dior Perfume.

Биография

Кристиан Диор родился 21 января 1905 года в небольшом нормандском городке Гранвиль, бывшем рыбацком порту на берегу Ла-Манша на северо-западе Франции. В 1911 году семья маленького Кристиана переехала в Париж. Родители у него были обеспеченными людьми, поэтому, несмотря на то, что был вторым из пятерых детей, в детстве он ни в чем не нуждался. Его отец сделал состояние на торговле химическими удобрениями, а мать превращала деньги в удовольствия. Начальное образование он получил дома, и первоначально, по настоянию родителей, готовился к дипломатической карьере. Кристиан поступил в Свободную школу политических наук, но на этом его политическая деятельность и закончилась. Вместо занятий по международному праву и географии, будущий кутюрье проводил время в музеях, учился музыкальной композиции и живописи. В 1928 году Кристиан с другом Жаном Бонжаком открыл арт-галерею, где выставлялись работы Дерена, Матисса, Пикассо. Трагическим для Кристиана стал 1931 год: от рака умирает его мать, а отец, оказавшись жертвой мошенничества, терпит банкротство и заболевает туберкулёзом. Закрывается и галерея Кристиана, ведь большей частью она финансировалась его отцом. Именно тогда он начал продавать свои рисунки: эскизы шляпок и платьев печатают в журнале Le Figaro Illustre. Несмотря на то, что его модели шляп пользовались гораздо большим успехом, чем одежда, Кристиан решает специализироваться именно на моделях одежды. В 1938 году он был замечен известным модельером Робером Пиге (Robert Piguet), но война помешала бурному развитию карьеры. Диор уходит в армию и служит на юге Франции. Но уже в 1941 году он возвращается в Париж и работает для известного модельного дома Lucien Lelong.

В 1942 Кристиан создал парфюмерную лабораторию, выросшую затем в фирму Christian Dior Perfume. «Достаточно открыть флакон, чтобы возникли все мои платья, а каждая женщина, которую я одеваю, оставляла за собой целый шлейф желаний. Духи — необходимое дополнение личности женщины, это завершающий аккорд для платья, это роза, которой Ланкре подписывал свои картины», — объяснял позже свой замысел Диор.

После войны, в 1946, при финансовой поддержке текстильного фабриканта Marcel Boussac, он открывает собственный дом моды.

В своей первой же коллекции 1947 года, Диор создает совершенно новую концепцию New Look. Это была «романтическая линия», с новым вариантом кринолина, тонкой талией и прилегающим лифом. В этом силуэте он воплотил собственное представление о женственности, которой так не хватало в эпоху войны с ее форменной одеждой и «трудовой повинностью» для женщин. Поначалу к новому дизайнеру отнеслись с опаской, однако уже через год вся Европа и Америка приняли новый стиль.

Именно благодаря своему оптимизму и острому инстинкту, позволяющему ему угадывать, что требуется послевоенной Франции, Диор стал одним из тех, кто помог вернуть послевоенному Парижу звание столицы мировой моды.

Как правильно пишется кристиан диор на английском

Вместе со своим партнером Джаквесом Роуетом, Диор стал первым применять лицензионные соглашения в модельном бизнесе. Уже в 1948 году, он упорядочивает лицензирование производства своих моделей в различных регионах Франции и всего мира. Таким образом фирменный знак Диор быстро появился во всех уголках земного шара.

Великий дизайнер ушёл из жизни 24 октября 1957 года в возрасте 52 лет от сердечного приступа в Монтекатини-Терме (Италия, Тоскана). В его фамильном доме в Гранвиле ныне существует музей.

Дом Dior стал колыбелью многих выдающихся дизайнеров XX века. Так, в 1953 году на фирму приходит молодой Ив Сен Лоран (Yves Saint Laurent). После внезапной смерти Диора, Ив Сен Лоран становится ведущим модельером дома Dior. После того как Ив Сен Лоран призывается на военную службу в 1960 году, его место занимает Марк Боан (Marc Bohan), который вел дом Dior, пока его не сменил Джанфранко Ферре (Gianfranco Ferre) в 1989 году. В октябре 1996 года на должность главного модельера дома Dior был утвержден Джон Галлиано (John Galliano).

Диор явился также пионером активного синтеза haute couture («высокой моды») и сценографии: был художником по костюмам в нескольких спектаклях («Школа злословия» по Ричарду Шеридану (Richard Sheridan) в Театре де Матюрин, 1940; ряд постановок Ролана Пети (Rolan Petit), 1950-е годы) и кинофильмах (режиссеров Клода Отан-Лара (Claude Autant-Lara), Альфреда Хичкока (Alfred Hitchcock) и др.). Создавал сценические туалеты для таких звезд эстрады и киноэкрана, как Эдит Пиаф и Марлен Дитрих.

Кристиан Диор всегда питал слабость к ароматам: «Духи — это непревзойденный оттенок женской индивидуальности, это последний штрих образа». Miss Dior, Diorama, Diorissimo, выпущенные еще при жизни Диора, Dioressence и Diorella — все эти духи, в названиях которых присутствует заветное имя Dior, образуют ряд классических «диоровских» ароматов. Их флаконы и упаковки выполнены в введенном самим Диором фирменном стиле: гамма «трианоновского» серого цвета, белого и розового, медальоны а-ля Людовик XVI, атласные ленточки, бумага с фактурой рогожки в рубчик «куриная лапка».

Источники

  • Кристиан Диор — биография

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Контексты

And you see someone at CVS or — not CVS — at Christian Dior or something, and then .
Вы встречаете кого-нибудь в CVS или не в CVS, а Christian Dior или где-то ещё, и тогда .

The criminal became a Christian and turned over a new leaf.
Преступник стал христианином и начал новую жизнь.

he offered her a heart-shaped pink diamond ring by Dior, she offered him a Swiss watch.
он подарил ей бриллиантовое кольцо в виде сердца от «Диор«, а она подарила ему швейцарские часы.

In the Christian faith, followers believe that there is only one God, and Jesus Christ is the Son of God.
В христианстве верующий считают, что есть только один Бог, а Иисус Христос — Божий сын.

But, then again, £50,000 is a lot of money for one of those Dior couture dresses, until I learned that over 2,000 hours of immaculate handiwork goes into making it.
Но, опять же, $77,000 многовато за модельное платье Dior, пока я не узнал, что более 2,000 часов безупречной ручной работы уходит на его изготовление.

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Источник

  • 1
    Кристиан Диор

    Универсальный русско-английский словарь > Кристиан Диор

См. также в других словарях:

  • Christian Dior — Born 21 January 1905(1905 01 21) Granville, Manche, France Died 23 October 1957(1957 10 23) (aged 52) Montecatini Terme, Tuscany, Italy Nationality French …   Wikipedia

  • Christian Dior — Naissance 21 janvier 1905 Granville, Manche Décès 24 octobre 1957 (à 52 ans) Montecatini Terme, Italie Nationalité …   Wikipédia en Français

  • Christian Dior SA — (more commonly known as Dior) is a French clothing retailer, under control of the LVMH group. The company was founded by fashion designer Christian Dior.Christian Dior SA itself controls 42% of LVMH assets, which holds other fashion brands such… …   Wikipedia

  • Christian Dior — Тип Société An …   Википедия

  • Christian Dior — (21 de enero de 1905 24 de octubre de 1957), nació en Granville, Francia, fue un influyente diseñador de moda. Christian Dior fue educado por el servicio diplomático en la École des Sciences Politiques de París. Luego, comenzó a trabajar en la… …   Enciclopedia Universal

  • Christian Dior S.A. — For other uses, see Dior (disambiguation). Christian Dior S.A. Type Société Anonyme Traded as Euronext:  …   Wikipedia

  • Christian Dior — Miniatur Modell des New Look von Dior Kollektion „Ligne Corolle“ (1947) Christian Dior (* 21. Januar 1905 in Granville, Normandie, Frankreich; † 24. Oktober 1957 in Montecatini Terme, Italien) war ein international bekannter französischer …   Deutsch Wikipedia

  • Christian Dior, S. A. — Para otros usos de este término, véase Dior. Christian Dior Fundada en 1947 Sede París Propietario LVMH Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy Productos …   Wikipedia Español

  • Christian Dior — Para la casa de modas del mismo nombre consultar Christian Dior, S.A. (también conocida como Dior). Christian Dior Biografía Nace 21 de enero de 1905 Granville,  Francia …   Wikipedia Español

  • Christian Dior (Unternehmen) — Christian Dior S.A. Rechtsform Aktiengesellschaft Gründung 1946 Sitz Paris …   Deutsch Wikipedia

  • Christian Dior (Entreprise) — Logo de Dior Création 1945 Fondateur(s) Christian Dior …   Wikipédia en Français

Источник

Как правильно произносить названия мировых брендов на английском

Начнём с, наверное, самого известного производителя фастфуда в мире — McDonald’s. Казалось бы, кто вообще в цивилизованном мире не знает, что это и как его произносить. Но нет!

Pronunciation. Ми привыкли говорить «мAкдональдс», а правильно произносить на английском языке — «мкдональдс», упуская букву «А» в начале слова.

Интересные факты из истории McDonald’s

• В 1962 году компания McDonald’s пригласила для сотрудничества психолога Луиса Ческина, который предложил заменить первый логотип с изображением повара на две золотые арки в виде буквы «М». Ческин считал, что форма арки напоминает женскую грудь, которая на бессознательном уровне вызывает аппетит.

• Рестораны McDonald’s чаще всего расположены на перекрёстках крупных дорог, где бывает много людей. При таком расположении ресторанов максимально высокая вероятность «зайти перекусить» даже, когда вы не голодны.

• В Калифорнии существует ненастоящий ресторан McDonald’s, который используют только для съемок рекламы и кино.

О McDonald’s есть книга Рэя Крока — «McDonald’s. Как создавалась империя». Рэй Крок – американский предприниматель чешского происхождения, в 1920 году разглядел в небольшой закусочной братьев Макдональдов будущий успех. Книга написана от первого лица, где автор подробно рассказывает о том, как создавался один из самых успешных бизнесов в мире и, как изменилась судьба самого Крока, после начала его карьеры бизнесмена.

Вернёмся к произношению названий мировых брендов. «Мы научили мир копировать». Это слоган лидера в области печати и копирования — Xerox.

Pronunciation. Ми привыкли говорить «ксерокс», но правильно говорить «Зирокс» на английском языке.

Интересные факты из истории Xerox

• Название походит от греческого слова «Xer» (в переводе с греческого – «сухой»). Это была задумка изобретателя Честора Карлсона, так как в то время существовало только влажное копирование.

• В 2006 году компания Xerox отпраздновала свое столетие.

Следующий бренд с интересным названием Moleskine. Для бизнесменов, писателей, дизайнеров и всех любителей канцелярии это хорошо известный и любимый бренд. В клеточку, в линейку, всевозможных цветов, практичных размеров и с удобным боковым кармашком для визитки или денег, этот чудо блокнот – отличный подарок и начальнику и лучшей подруге.

Pronunciation. Ми привыкли говорить «молескин», а правильно «молскин», упуская букву «Е».

Интересные факты из истории Moleskine

• Бренд Moleskine был создан в 1997 году, возродив легендарный блокнот, которым пользовались известные деятели искусства: Пабло Пикассо, Эрнест Хемингуей, Анри Матисс и Винсент Ван Гог.

• Блокноты Moleskine можно встретить в различных картинах мирового кинематографа: «Амели», «Талантливый мистер Рипли», в фильме о приключении Индианы Джонса.

IKEA – самый большой продавец мебели в мире. Всего 4 буквы, разве можно ошибиться в произношении? Конечно, если спросить американца, где найти «икеа» или «икиа», он вас, скорее всего, поймёт и подскажет. Но даже в этом, простом на первый взгляд, слове, есть загвоздка!

Pronunciation. Ми привыкли говорить «икеа», а правильно «айкиа».

Интересные факты из истории IKEA

• Посетителям магазина IKEA можно поспать на любом понравившемся диване прямо в магазине. Сотрудники магазина могут разбудить его только через 2–3 часа. Эта опция позволяет покупателям чувствовать себя как дома и с большим желанием покупали мебель в этом магазине.

• Огромное количество ссор можно услышать в этом магазине. В США психологи даже советуют своим пациентам сходить в IKEA, если они хотят проверить на прочность свои отношения.

О IKEA написана книга Ингваром Кампрадом. Название книги — «Есть идея! История ИКЕА».

Кампрад рассказывает об истории успеха компании. Это история о кропотливом труде и преодолении многочисленных кризисов. Его известная фраза: «Только тот, кто спит, не совершает ошибок!», — чётко показывает силу его характера и веру в то, что с небольшой семейной фирмы, располагавшейся на старой шведской ферме, можно вырасти до мирового лидера.

Как произносить названия брендов одежды и обуви на английском

Французский дом моды — Christian Dior. Даже, если вы не разбираетесь в брендах одежды, вы точно слышали это название.

Pronunciation. Мы привыкли говорить «кристиан диор», а американцы говорят «криштиан диор».

О доме моды Dior есть книга, написанная её основателем Кристианом Диором — «Dior словарь моды». «Dior словарь моды» – это справочник в мир моды, который рассказывают о том, что значит мода «по Диору». Первое издание вышло в свет в 1954 году, но словарь до сих пор не потерял своей актуальности, поскольку главным модным акцентом книги является женственность, которая никогда не выходит из моды.

Givenchy – французский представитель моды. В этой компании выпускают одежду, обувь парфюмерию и аксессуары.

Pronunciation. Мы привыкли говорить «живаншИ», а американцы говорят «живАнши» с ударением на «А».

Интересные факты из истории Givenchy

• Много клиенток Юбера де Живанши говорили, что встретили мужчину своей мечты, когда были одеты в платье от Givenchy. Создавая одежду, Юбер де Живанши думал не только о красоте покроя, но и о комфорте женщины. Он говорил: «Если женщине удобно в выбранном наряде, её жесты будут естественными, и она будет счастлива».

• Под брендом Givenchy когда-то производилась одежда для кукол Барби.

Nike — всемирно известный американский производитель спортивной одежды и обуви.

Pronunciation. Мы привыкли говорить «найк», а правильно «найки».

Интересные факты о Nike

• Название этого бренда походит от имени греческой богини победы — Ники.

• Существует версия, что легендарную фразу Nike «just do it» еще в 1977 году произнёс серийный убийца Гари Гилмор, который незадолго до исполнения смертного приговора в виде расстрела сказал «let’s do it». Данный факт огласили общественности только в 2009 году, когда вышел документальный фильм — «Art & Copy».

Как правильно произносить названия автомобильных брендов на английском

Automobili Lamborghini SpA — итальянская автомобильная компания, которая выпускает спортивные автомобили высокого класса, а также тракторы.

Pronunciation. По правилам итальянского языка, если после G стоит H, то это следует читать как Г. Отсюда правильное произношение «ламборГини».

Интересные факты из истории Lamborghini

• Lamborghini был успешным производителем тракторов, прежде чем занялся выпуском спортивных автомобилей.

• Первый Lamborghini 350GTV был выпущен в 1963 года. Он развивал невероятную для тех времён скорость — 280 км/ч.

Hyundai Motor Company — крупнейшая южнокорейская автомобилестроительная компания.

Pronunciation. Мы привыкли говорить «хюндай», а американцы говорят «хаюндэй».

Интересные факты о Hyundai

• В отличии от других автомобильных компаний, которые обычно предлагают гарантию на автомобили максимум на 2-3 года, Hyundai даёт 5 лет гарантии.

• В сумме 4 740 000 автомобилей в год выпускают все автомобильные заводы Hyundai.

BMW — немецкий производитель автомобилей, мотоциклов, двигателей, а также велосипедов.

Pronunciation. Мы привыкли говорить «бэ эм вэ», а американцы говорят «би эм дабл ю».

Интересные факты из истории BMW

• Изначально компания BMW производила двигатели самолётов.

• Основатели BMW выбраны синие и белые цвета в честь баварского флага.

Не исключено, что старая привычка произносить слова не правильно, проявится и не раз, но практика и еще раз практика – волшебная сила. Попробуйте провести эксперимент. Всю неделю называйте правильно названия брендов во всевозможных местах: в магазине, в офисе, на парковке, на вечеринке или в компании друзей. Дискашн будет жарким!

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Источник

Christian Dior was a French fashion designer whose post–World War II creations were wildly popular, and whose legacy continues to influence the fashion industry.

Who Was Christian Dior?

Legendary fashion designer Christian Dior exploded onto the Paris fashion scene with designs that flew in the face of wartime restrictions and reintroduced a femininity and focus on luxury to women’s fashion. His resulting success, based on the innovation of both his designs and his business practices, made him the most successful fashion designer in the world. His designs have been worn by film stars and royalty alike, and his company continues to operate at the forefront of the fashion industry.

Early Life

Dior was born on January 21, 1905, in Granville, a seaside town in the north of France. He was the second of five children born to Alexandre Louis Maurice Dior, the owner of a highly successful fertilizer manufacturer, and his wife, Isabelle. When he was a boy, Dior’s family moved to Paris, where he would spend his youth. Although Dior was passionate about art and expressed an interest in becoming an architect, he submitted to pressure from his father and, in 1925, enrolled at the École des Sciences Politiques to begin his studies in political science, with the understanding that he would eventually find work as a diplomat.

After his graduation in 1928, however, Dior opened a small art gallery with money he received from his father, who had agreed to lend his son his financial support on the condition that the family name would not appear above the gallery door. In the few years it was open, Dior’s gallery handled the works of such notable artists as Georges Braque, Pablo Picasso, Jean Cocteau and Max Jacob. He was forced to close the gallery in 1931, a year that included the deaths of both his older brother and mother and the financial collapse of his father’s business.

Early Work in Fashion

Following the closing of his gallery, Dior began to make ends meet by selling his fashion sketches, and in 1935, landed a job illustrating the magazine Figaro Illustré. Several years later, Dior was hired as a design assistant by Paris couturier Robert Piguet. However, when World War II began the following year, Dior served in the south of France as an officer in the French army.

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Following France’s surrender to Germany in 1940, Dior returned to Paris, where he was soon hired by couturier Lucien Lelong. Throughout the remaining years of the war, Lelong’s design house would consistently dress the women of both Nazis and French collaborators. During this same time, Dior’s younger sister, Catherine, was working for the French Resistance. (She was captured and sent to a concentration camp, but survived; she was eventually released in 1945.)

Death

In 1957, several months after appearing on the cover of Time magazine, Dior traveled to Italy to vacation in the town of Montecatini. While there, on October 23, 1957, he suffered what was his third heart attack and died, at the age of 52.

Marcel Boussac sent his private plane to Montecatini to bring Dior’s body back to Paris, and Dior’s funeral was attended by an estimated 2,500 people, including all of his staff and many of his most famous clients. He was buried in Cimetière de Callian, in Var, France. At the time of his death, Dior’s house was earning more than $20 million annually.

In celebration of the 70th anniversary of the designer’s first presentation, the National Gallery of Victoria in 2017 published The House of Dior: Seventy Years of Haute Couture. The 256-page coffee table book, through a series of breathtaking photographs, provides an in-depth look at the evolution of the French fashion house over the years.

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